WarmGlass.com

I will give the scotch tape a try. Thanks Brad.

Thanks Brad.

Does anyone have any experience with No Days glass fusing glue? I need a glue that is not water soluble like Glastac is and I have read that No Days is not water soluble. Are there other alternatives to Glastac that are not water soluble and not the older suggestions such as super glue?

I have a need for a tape that I can temporarily tape glass pieces together before fusing. I have seen in older posts, the use of Scotch tape but I was wondering what the current information is regarding this. Is there something new that is better than Scotch tape?

Thanks Barry. Previously when I was mixing stains with low fire frits, I was getting the frit or "flux" from Fusion Ceramics. At that time, I was more interested in the low temp fluxes but now I should look into the higher temp frits that Pimco or Ferro have. One of the reasons that I used...

I have been working over the years with techniques to permanently put imagery into glass. That involved screen printing either enamels or stains (mixed with low fire frit) onto glass. The problems that I had were that the enamels were too easily broken down by alkalis and acids, as were the mixes of...

Thanks Don. From what I have been encountering, I get the feeling that glass paints or China paints would vaporize too quickly but I will experiment using some glass paints that I have around.

Thank you Daniel. The batch colorant page is especially interesting. I need to access some small test amounts of some of the metal oxides (or carbonates) and I will probably give sulfur a run. At least I will find out with sulfur how well my vented enclosure works.

I tried Mason Stains because I use them all of the time in screen printing but they didn't work with the laser. They were burned away by the laser and ineffective. I believe the metal oxides and carbonates work because they are actually coloring the glass at the immediate point of contact of the bas...

I have been experimenting with using lasers to burn images into glass and it has been going well. Currently I am using glass colorants that can be lasered to tint the base glass. The colorant that I have been using is cobalt carbonate since it is probably one of the most potent glass colorants. I ha...

I just thought that I would mention that the powder screening worked well to get the even layer that I needed. I did learn though that you need either a new screen or one that is perfectly clean for consistency. The first screen that I used had a little haze in it left over from wet media screening ...

Yeah, I have tried hand sifting but even with larger sifters it isn't even enough. I will try the screen technique and hopefully it will do the job.

Thanks Brad. I just thought that I would see if anybody had any other possibilities.

I need to overlay some imagery on glass with a layer of clear powder frit. I need to achieve a thin layer that is consistent in thickness across the entire piece and that is repeatable on other pieces. I am contemplating dry screening the powder with a 110 mesh screen but I thought that I would see ...

I was just wondering what type of kiln controller you have and whether it has a high temperature limit on it?

It was my first attempt at ball milling some Easy Melt cullet from Wissmach and I probably did pulverize it too much. I was used to using scrap that I had to quench and stamp to make a gravel before I milled it and that took quite a while to mill down. I will try less time in the mill. I will probab...

Thanks Brad. Do you have any ideas of how to get rid of the super fine particles?

I am ball milling some glass down to use as a frit for fusing and I have a question. I have had a problem with milkiness in my clear powder and I assume that it is because I have not been screening out the extremely fine particles out of powder that I have run through an 80 mesh screen. Does anyone ...

I have ventilation near the kilns but the amount of lead that is vaporized is minimal. I have had periodic lead blood tests mainly because of my leaded glass work and have had no high levels. The danger of lead poisoning is greater with simple solder work for leaded glass than the firing of lead bas...

Those are Fahrenheit degrees. I use a pretty low firing lead based flux for my work and that is why the temps with stains added are around 1250 to 1350 degrees.