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Jerry,

Beautiful melt! Did you add the rim later, or place it under the melt?

Steve

Phil,

If you fill the basin with water before starting, is there really a need to have the water feed connected at all?

Steve

What are you using felisatti grinders for?

Steve

NY Times April 28, 2003 The Luster of Glass Joins Art's Mainstream By STEPHEN KINZER TACOMA, Wash. — When the Museum of Glass opened in a striking cone-shaped building here last summer, many people in Tacoma took it as a symbol of this city's rebirth. Long considered a gritty and drab stepsister t...

Was the glass that you slumped first fused in a separate firing? The glass gets it's nice gloss at temps above slumping temps. The side of the glass in contact with the shelf or mold will always have some texture, but the "up" side, will have a nice gloss at fusing temps. So, a typical sit...

Cliff,

Sorry if I'm being dense, but I still don't understand if the haze is on the surface or between layers.

Steve

Is the irid facing up? Facing down? or between layers?

Is the haze on the surface or between layers?

Steve

Yes. I cut the rims just like in Patty's tutorial.

Try it. It works. It's easier with transparent glass because you can see the score propagate, but I've done it with opals as well.

Steve

Nita, Thanks. The pot melt was about 1/4" thick, maybe a tiny bit thicker. I cut a 3mm clear circular base, and cut two 3mm thick rims: one clear, and one grass green tint and placed them around the melt, but on top of the base. Added the details and fired. The piece is now 3/8" thick. It ...

Thanks to all for your comments.

Steve

Thanks.

Steve

Very nice melt! If you can drill out the bubbles, or sandblast, then refire with a small piece of clear frit at the site of the bubbles, you may be able to minimize their appearance. I found that the back side of the melt can have a very interesting and different appearance also. http://www.clearwat...

Randy,

OK Here it is:

http://www.clearwaterglass.com/whirlpool.htm



Steve

Sue, That was my first try, and the hole was small - I think about 3/8th. Not all the glass came through, and my glass ended up about 8". I tried another one with a pot that came with a 7/8th inch hole and the results were better: http://www.clearwaterglass.com/images/AperturePour_OVA2.jpg For ...

I used a Paragon front loading GL22-AD. It's kind of tight, but seems to have enough room for a 6" pot.

Steve

http://www.clearwaterglass.com/aperture_pour_test.htm

Of course Phil's suggestions are right on target.

If the shelf is the culpret (as I suspect it is) you could just get a new shelf. The Bullseye connection sells shelves that they say are perfectly flat.

Steve

C&R Loo says they have a couple of sheets and are sending them to me. Hopefully, they will arrive intact. Thanks all.

Steve

Thanks guys. I'll check out these leads.

Steve

I need to make a commission piece, and one of the components has to be clear gold irid BE 1101-38F and I can't find any at Ed Hoy (they don't carry it) nor at the BE Connection or BE Factory (they had two sheets when I asked, but by the time they went to pack the order they were gone...). I need to ...

When I make something like this I usually build a frame the same thickness as the central portion so the piece has a uniform thickness. Maybe this isn't the effect you want, but I've not had any thermal shock problems with it.

Steve