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unless there is texture or something else that you need a bubble squeeze on no. otherwise fairly slow to 1200, soak an hour and go. Also depends on if you are close to the elements

also 1250 is a little high for a regular slump. I usually slump at 1150

I used to use cork but they wear easily. Now I use a trizact 1800 belt, then felt with pumice and end with a felt and cerium. all available at HISglassworks

Has anybody reglued 4x106 belts that came apart at the seam? These are older but brand new so I assume it dried out. Perfect fit back, but not sure what glue to use if at all?

I use a propane weed torch head from harbor freight and an air gun. One hand uses the torch, removes it and the other hand sprays kiln wash

Of the three I would only use hxtal and never the others. had problems with yellowing and failing. The only other I use, and I use it mostly for hanging hardware is loctite hysol h30cl. It is super for metal to glass, never yellows. Course if I have to cold work, it's back to hxtal

the other problem with that is that duraboard has more chance to drop flakes than a ceramic shelf above another

Never had much luck with hot line. I use BE in my high fires although I don't comb. Usually do 10-12 coats mixed 1 cup wash to 2 cups water. Occasionally I get some stickage, but never to the shelf and usually I am cold working anyway

would agree with Don and add that whenever you have tacked on elements you slow down more as there is more variance in thickness. The crack may have started at a dot.

2 30 amp fuses DOES NOT equal 60 amps. It equals 30. For a 60 amp circuit you need either 2 60 amp fuses or a double pole 60 amp breaker. The wire would be #6 gauge copper. Anything less and you risk a fire if you require 60 amps

I think the coe changed as well. That and the Oceanside glasses are different in some ways than the Uroboros

Firing dichro down usually works better, plus never any sticking. I have had a little dichro pop off when face up. Problem is if you want to cap, you need to fire first as the dichro tends to bubble when capped

didn't know you were in China. I know from working there a couple of years ago even getting basic tools could be challenging. I know there are some good videos at Smooth-On, Inc. | Mold Making & Casting Materials | Rubbers ...www.smooth-on.com. Sometimes they are for more complex but maybe somet...

thanks. working on a bigger one now

There are definitely ways to do it. I learned with a great teacher named Judy Hill at Pilchuck. It's a little complex especially trying to show in pictures. It involves multi coats of silicone and then making a line with a release and another coat after that. Then being able to cut through. Kind of ...

It was in about a week. Very conservative heat up, anneal and cool down. Thank you Graham Stone!! Hope to get my bell kiln rebuilt in the next couple of months to do the larger ones.

Thanks! The next piece in this series will be 16" x 36"

Also depends on the type of glass and how many vents you have. Gaffer flows better and at a lower temp. Some investments like R & R are tougher and hold more detail

Thanks Don, I appreciate the info.

Dick

HI all. I usually use r and r but the new forms will get so much cold working I can get by with plaster silica. I know mixes like r and r have a shelf life. How about plaster silica? does it matter if they are mixed or separate? I have an old bag of silica and would like to mix it with new plaster b...