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I'm sure there's someone out there who know a whole lot more about this (Barbara Cashman comes to mind), but in my limited experience, GNA fires at the same temperatures as Bullseye and Spectrum. It stayed nice and shiny, too. I just couldn't find enough colors that tested as compatible, and it's no...

Most all controllers have a programmable alarm setting (I have a Bartlett). The alarms are generally Sonalert type alarms that are powered by a logic level pulse. If this same signal were to be used to shut off the controller, the problem would be solved (with operator control of the shutdown tempe...

Yes, I think Cynthia is right. The really fine dust can cause clouding.

I don't think that their specs on the glass are reliable, anyway. Its not intended for fusing. I might just try some Kokomo with the GNA, though if they say its 92, or even with the Bullseye. I just thought that since the ones I tested worked with Spectrum that they would all be too far off to work ...

Of course you should be keeping an eye on the kiln all the time, but we have a life. I have my kiln start up while I'm at work, and I sometimes have an hour or two left in the annealing cycle when I go to bed. Other than that, I generally check on it every hour or so. As far as fire hazards go, havi...

quill wrote:I have contacted both Armstrong and Youghiogeny about their COE's.


Oh and Kokomo said 'about 92'

Well, that's interesting cause I have found quite a few that tested with the System 96.

Of course, you really have to test, but I have found lots of Kokomo that tested compatible with Spectrum, mostly transparents but a few opals. It has the same devit issues that the regular Spectrum has, but you can always cap it with System 96 clear for good results.

FALL!!! I want them now!!! Why do they tease us like that? I love it, more browns and greys and a delicious new purple.

Moist Pack is the same as fiberblanket & colloidal silica, right? Then you can sand it after it has air dried and before you fire it.

Well, we have a wet belt sander, but don't do any extensive amount of work on it. It didn't seem worth the trouble to do anything fancy for 10 minutes of work twice a week, so we just have a squirt bottle of water and squirt it on the belt. There's an empty bucket sitting under the sander to collect...

I agree that Jerry's comments are bang on. When I think about it, that's how I decide which are my best pieces. There's almost always something that I feel would have been better if... If I'm totally satisfied, then I know it's a good one. Too bad that doesn't happen often. When I look at glass in g...

OK, I checked the archives about the steel blue and this is a post from Lani of BE: "Ron, sorry that I can't tell you the composition. It's proprietary (and everyone at BE reads this board so I'll surely get busted by the production mgr if I tell) I can tell you that there is no lead in this gl...

I really do appreciate the input from you guys that have played with these effects, but... 1. BE steel blue turns silver when exposed without any fancy reduction work - just the regular oxidizing atmosphere of an electric kiln. If you lose the silver by fusing too high, it comes back on the slump (I...

I'm not sure your experience with steel blue is reduction in the usual sense. If it is covered by clear glass and therefore not exposed to oxygen, it stays blue - this is reduction right? If it is on the surface and exposed to the air then you get the metallic surface forming (depending on temperatu...

OK, I'm really late into this, again! I just don't have enough time anymore. I didn't really notice that much difference in the new board, because I was reading the old board in "mixed threaded" or whatever where all the posts in a thread just came up on the page in chronological order any...

OK, I'm hoping there are some scientist types reading the board. I have been using silver and lately copper with the glass, and every once in a while something really unexpected happens. Since I don't understand the chemistry involved, it is hard to analyze the factors in the different results. When...

I use a lot of black and even little bubbles look really awful if they are raised on the surface. As well as going really slow from 1150 to 1250, I have found that I will have small "pimples" at 1450, but if I fire a little higher (to 1480) they somehow flatten out. It's like the glass lev...

You're going from a pretty small kiln to a bigger kiln. Are the pieces you're firing also bigger? If so, then you have to change your firing schedule. If the glass is breaking on heat up then you need to slow down the rate of firing. A 12" piece 1/4" thick should be OK if heated at 400F pe...

Odd, I've ALWAYS thought the yellow was a pretty nasty green. Spectrum is usually pretty good about color consistency. Anything that isn't standard is marked "Transition" or relegated to the Rack Packs. I guess yellow is one of those colors that's touchy. Perhaps after it's fired it won't ...

Don't you find that the piece of glass leaves an indent in the fiber that shows up on the next piece? My 1/8" paper is good for at least 4 firings before it starts to rip up, but that indent is a problem. I even tried taking a rolling pin to it to smooth it out, but that didn't work either.