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When I was doing Glass Clay, there was an offshoot of a material that would mix with frit (or mica) to achieve a sheet. To emulated this I used decoupage glue that was thinned a little with water. Laid out sheets of the mix on wax paper and let thoroughly dry. Result could be cut, punched or whateve...

Instead of glycol and water based mediums, use A-14 or pine oil.
Your problem is probably the medium

cmc burns off at about 900 F. You are left with frit which behaves like you experienced with FNF

Usually any type of undercut will fail.
Also, tall pieces will do exactly like yours did.

Find a listing of Pimco and Ferro Fluxes online. There are literally scores of them with varying activation temps and compositions.
You will find one with the properties that you want.

I've done a lot of laser etching for dichro and irid removal. It is very finicky. No problem with the glass breaking, but if you etch too deep, the glass will devitrify. Too light and you don't remove the coating. You have to learn the balance. Actually different colors of dichro have to be etched a...

Terry,
You might try Mason Stains.
They would combine with melted glass (at the surface) and (hopefully) withstand the temperatures

For simple multicolor, you can paint on your colors directly on the screen, then squeegee off the excess.. Cannot get great detail, but for general work it works.

Sorry I am late to the party, I've been ouot of town.

Heck yea you can combine enamel or stains with powder.
I do it all the time.

The only way to find out is to experiment.
Very small quantities work fine, so just run some tests.

Kevin,
The Charcoal embedding is used with copper containing metals (bronze and Brass) as a reducing environment to prevent scaling. It is not generally used with precious metals.

I am hoping this is just a fun topic for everyone. I am not trying to be argumentative. Just trying to have a fun and informative discussion. I am wondering, in the name of science< why the screw is necessary. Even if you have successfully used it for years, i wonder why. The amount of pressure does...

Kevin,
Everyone is answering that they have cut miles of glass with the screw. I have cut miles without. That is not the point

My question is why the screw actually makes a difference.

Kevin Midgley wrote:cleaner cuts are made with a properly adjusted pair. Zero flaring at the start of the cut.

Why?

The glass doesn't know where the screw is at the beginning of the run until the pliers stop pressing. And by that time the run has already started.

Lynne: Yeah I think he did continue with a new supplier. I go back a long way and he was very reliable. Great to work with. I bought my sintered wheels from him at a great price. He no longer sells them, just when I need to replace mine. I suggest you check out the ebay supplier whose link I posted ...

Daniel is still in business. Gotta work his site to get to the drills. Lau has worked fine for me. I too have drilled 1000s of holes. Get an average of 10-12 holes per bit. They cost peanuts per bit. Recently I bought from another supplier on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/391717482444?ssPageName=STR...

Ebay seller: LAU***
And
Daniel Lopacki http://www.lopacki.com/lopacki/index.html

let me add one thing here. The thickest glass I break is 6 mil, so thicker glass may behave differently.

Brad or anyone. I understand the use of the screw, but not the benefit. Since the glass is not flexible, neither the glass nor the pliers know the position of the screw when the break is made. Once pressure is applied to the pliers, the glass has to fully break for the screw to come into play. Thus ...

Just a fun question. I have been fusing for many years and obviously used running pliers all that time. Often when I use the pliers I wonder what good that screw on the pliers does. When the pliers are in place to separate the glass, neither the pliers nor the glass knows where that screw is. The gl...