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Hi Ernest: What Rick said (hi Rick! and say hi to Allison for me). And, plan to go to the New Exhibitor Orientation and as many of the other seminars as you can. I learned to sketch out my booth display, lighting plan and artwork layout before we get to the show, so we have a starting point. Robin E

Hi Paul: I use UV glue and have a UV curing light that I got through Ed Hoy's. Even though I live in Arizona, just as I plan to cure the UV glue, a cloud will pass by. Best to read recommendations on the UV glue you plan to purchase so you know best temperatures and how much time you have for proper...

Hi Gabriel: I have the Skutt GM1414. With electronics, handles and other exterior attached items, the exterior dimensions are: 53 L x 36" D x 20" H. This doesn't include the two stands that comes with the GM1414. My husband and I just moved this kiln from outside (I live in Arizona) to my ...

I use 527 for for adhering glass onto glass for layering effects. The glass has popped off occasionally even with 527 when I use some force (xacto knife to clean up oozed out glue) or when cleaning with wet sponge after I have grouted a mosaic for example. I have had better luck with 527 overall per...

Paul:

Here's a good place to look also:
http://constructioncomplete.com/

The QEP 60010 is $460 : http://constructioncomplete.com/Tile-Sa ... 60010.html

Robin

Hi Paul: Here's what it says on my QEP: Model TY1000A (6010) 2-1/2 hp, 20 amp, 120 volt. It has one speed which works great for everything I cut (granite, marble, thick glass, travertine, concrete blocks, porcelain tile and so on). I have cut many 18" tiles (my main $$ living has come from mosa...

Hi Paul:

I've rented MK's for various classes I teach out-of-state. So, I've used both brands. I think MK's work well.

And for all the features, etc I got with my QEP, I find it a better value.

Robin

So far so good - I peeked in my kiln and the blump has filled in quite nicely. When I'm able to take it out, I'll see if I want to use it as originally intended or use it as a base for another new design. Thank you Tom, Brock and Barbara. If I can figure out how to post my digital shots of before an...

Hi Paul: When I was comparing the MK's last year - I discovered QEP saws. For the price, hp and other features, I ended up buying a QEP with 2-1/2 hp. The price difference was substantial (savings of hundreds) and a heavy duty stand was included with the QEP. I love my QEP. Here's the site if you ar...

A question that comes from this fix for me is this: Since this platter is part of a specific limited edition series and the tack fused elements are "fixed" because of this particular design (normally the tack fused elements are 1-1/2" from the edges on two sides). I would have to make...

Thanks Brock. I would much rather do all those firings to save this piece than not. I'll refire it today and post the results as soon as I can take it out of the kiln. (Then I'll give the electric company their share of the profits as soon as I sell it - probably sooner).

Robin

Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2003 1:25 pm Post subject: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Robin, you did not say where the bump is located but since you propose to drill it from the back I assume it is between the clear back and the pink layer. Would it be poss...

I've been fusing blanks - top layer is 90 irid, irid up - bottom layer is clear. My last blank (of course), the 25th one, for this design series has ONE BLUMP (a bubble/lump). This BLUMP is in a 10" x 16" cranberry pink irid (gorgeous and expensive) so I'd like to not have to cut it to a s...

Thanks to everyone who answered my question about clear adhesive. I took the advice, went to my local hardware store and picked up some GE Silicone ll which withstands temperatures (once fully cured) up to 400F. Will send in an image of the sconces soon so you can see the results. Thanks again Robin...

I am in the midst of creating sconces (max bulb wattage is 60) and have decided it will be easier to use a clear adhesive to glue "part a" to "part b" after I slump each part (rather than attempt to tack fuse then slump due to varying thicknesses of parts a & b). Does anyone ...