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Dick is correct.
Full strength cure is 24 hrs at room temp. Max chemical resistance takes a full week.

Tony

Hi Bonnie. There are many solutions - Affordable is the question. Probably the best solution is to get a larger cabinet like a glass passer that attempts to keep the dust inside the cabinet. Then you can avoid using the hood. An alternative is to get a hood with a dedicated air source made for breat...

Excellent. I'm glad it's working for you. I would suggest you make a sign reminding you to drain the compressor and each of separators before sandblasting and stick it to the wall next to the sandblaster. It'll be a constant reminder that the only way to beat moisture in SF is to drain as much water...

I'd like to circle back to Kevin's comment about the copper tubing. The reason this is effective is that for a smaller compressor that runs a lot while sandblasting, the compressed air coming out of the compressor is very warm and can retain a lot of moisture in the form of vapor. This moisture cann...

Some things you might try: Make sure your compressor is drained of water every day. In a humid environment, the process of compressing air heats the air and puts all the humidity into the tank. As the air cools, the moisture condenses out and settles to the bottom of the tank where it can be reintro...

Thanks for trying.

This is the way we all learn.

Tony

Sprinkle some Bon Ami cleanser (it's finely ground limestone) on the surface, add a little water and rub. Like Cerium Oxide, it will polish the surface removing any residue.

Tony

I would follow Dick's recommendations AND replace the kiln elements to operate at the lower voltage. That will ensure you can get to temperature in a reasonable amount of time.

Tony

Are these full-size belts or Covington size? I've never heard of belts coming apart, but I suppose it's possible as the glue hardens over time.

Tony

I've used #1 plaster. I'm not sure how that's different from plaster of Paris.

Tony

According to the MSDS, it's a styrene-butadiene copolymer. The E6000 uses tetrachlorethylene as its volatile solvent. That means it is not a silicone and is more like rubber cement in its composition.

Tony

What are you using to glue the glass to the metal? Theres a large difference in thermal expansion between most metals and glass so if you're using an epoxy, you need to be careful how, and more importantly, where, you glue the glass. A silicone is more compliant and therefore more forgiving about ho...

Put it back in the kiln upside down and use a reasonable ramp (200 deg/hr or so) up to 600 degrees and the glass will separate from the mold. If you have some ceramic fiber you could use that under the rim in 3 or more places to cushion the glass when it falls.

Tony

1175 with a good anneal on the way down will remove the tempering. That said, you can sandblast tempered glass without it blowing up. A light etch will work just fine.

Tony

I wasn't able to open the link that you posted, but you'll find directions in the archives here. Also, micas don't produce an iridized surface, which is a tin oxide, but a thin layer of the mica fuses to the surface of the glass. Essentially, you'll mix mica in a medium like Klyr-fire with some alco...

It seems bizarre that all 4 elements would burn out at the same time... in fact, I would say the likelihood is near zero. How did you determine that the elements were all burned out?

Thanks

Tony

The idea behind moving the entire controller is to get the power handling components away from the kiln heat and retain the enclosure. If you didn't do that, you would need to have a separate enclosure for the SSRs.

Tony

You might want to read this post on relays from the archives
http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB3/viewtop ... ay#p353553

If the kiln has top and side elements, and one is malfunctioning (as Brad indicated because of a broken element or failed relay), the kiln will not get to temperature. So heat up the kiln and take a peek inside. Are all the elements glowing?

Tony

Assuming your glass hasn't slumped or fused which might indicate a problem with the thermocouple or a misprogramming of the F/C units, I've seen this problem when the peephole has been left unplugged or when the lid is not completely closed allowing room air into the kiln and hot air to escape.

Tony