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bert - don't do it. Not only does HYG yellow/brown quickly, but it also fails over time. I've stopped using it entirely after the THIRD gallery had a piece just spontaneously come unglued. And I am meticulous in the application.

Has anyone seen/heard of/imagined a good hanging system for a fiber-lidded kiln? The Denver system uses mullite tubes (which break all the time) that hook onto steel pegs. There are two separate racks (one for each side) and the system is unwieldy at best, horrible terrible cussing & swearing at...

I hate paying $45 for a replacement mullite rod - the ones that suspend my kiln elements. Does anyone have any thoughts about repairing them? They're hollow (and so even more doggone fragile). Thanks!

I bought a silhouette (last year?) to cut fiber paper. I tried 1/8 and it was a mess, so it's on my list to try 1/16. Give me a holler if either of y'all have done this and succeeded!

ah, this is why I love this board - questions I hadn't thought of! I want an engraving lathe but can't afford the Steve Klein covington. I've become a craig's list fan and saw a lapidary arbor and thought...hmmmm...

has anyone had experience modifying a lapidary arbor for use as a glass lathe?

you can use what you have to make a mold with clay, or wet felt (fiber blanket with rigidizer), or that mold mix that Mike Dupille sells (which has a name that has flown right out of my head).

interesting stuff. I apparently need to buy a tie before I make my next circle cut tho

I should just email Tim Tate and ask him, I suppose, but I am wanting to cast small (think toy soldier, domino, that's about the right size) objects. I have zero experience with casting other than in open face molds. Would love to know the best way to make a model and then cast it. Small words pleas...

PM Geri Comstock, she has work on their site. My first impression is mixed - some good folks (like Geri) and some amateurs underpricing glass. I'm always offended by folks who rip off copyrighted characters (like Betty Boop). That's just illegal and shouldn't be condoned by a sales site. With this f...

Don't use fiberpaper. Kiln-wash your stainless steel instead.

i use an IMER. love some things about it, not thrilled about others - like blade depth.

just standard BE white. Not sure what you mean by what I'm firing it with. On kilnwash, mixed color loads. Nothing that I know of that should fume.

So...what causes glass to turn silver grey? I have been having this happen with white and yellow glass lately, at all sorts of firing temps. It almost has a fumed look. Firings have included all sorts of other colors.

Argh. I spend a lot of time making my glass and then figuring out the best way to pack and ship it. Most pieces get double-boxed with padding between boxes. So I generally pay for the size, not the weight, of shipping glass. It really burns me when galleries fuss about the shipping cost - especially...

It's not clear to me whether you are firing Uroboros 90 with spectrum 96? If so, don't. If not, please tell us more.

One day, I will get around to having a welder build me a new box for the kiln(s). But then I want them deeper. and...there it starts!!

I agree. UPS is unreasonable and way too $$$$. I sell to a gallery in Hawaii. They wanted $1,000 to box & ship 2 pieces (worth to me wholesale about $400). When I balked, their response was that I shouldn't sell to Hawaii!!! With that said, have you ever bought glass directly from Bullseye (or S...

Hi Carol, I live over in Quincy - did you know that locally we have formed a new glass guild? Check out the Southern Art Glass Alliance. At any rate, I have extremely rusty denver kilns - one day I went to scrape off some of the rust on one in preparation for painting it and discovered that there wa...

So, there are ways to try to stabilize an inclusion. You can surround it with frit. You can but it up against a sheet of glass. A lot of movement has to do with the volume of your glass - if you have a single sheet, with (for example) some copper on top, and another sheet of glass on the top, it wil...