WarmGlass.com

Ellen, I am not an advocate of fusing and slumping in one firing. These things happen at two very different temperatures. Though, I know that people do fuse and slump in one firing. In order to do this you would need to be using a shallow mold and perhaps only tack fusing as opposed to going to a fu...

By the way, if it is the ring mottles you like in the glass then you would be disappointed in using it to fuse with. Usually ring mottles are a crystal growth in the glass that disappears when you heat it to kiln forming temperatures. For those of you tring to cut geko glass, if it is made by Armstr...

Hi, I live in Salem Oregon. And have all my life. I like it here because all of our family is close by. I wouldn't recommend Salem though. Being the Capital City it is VERY Conservative. But Silverton is a small Community about 15 miles from Salem to the east. It has a growing Art community, the rec...

Lonnie, I have had both saws and I sell both. These would be my assessments: The Tarus saw has more maintainence. If you are someone that is not equipment oriented or someone that likes to use and abuse equipment then this may not be the saw for you. As stated above, the service department is fabulo...

One little addition to Amy's post: If you are going to buy the bisque ware from a ceramic shop be sure to run your hand across the bottom where the glass is going to slump into. Often I have found that these molds are NOT smooth. For the paint and fire ceramic it may not matter, but if you are going...

abes,
Glastar and Diamond Tech Int'l both make beveling equipment. They aren't really heavy duty enough for polishing large fused items but for beads they probably would work. You might check with your local stained glass supplier.

Lynda

Are you making the bottom of the box fused glass also? If it is only the lid, you could coat a mandrel with bead separator and put it between two layers of glass. When the fusing is complete, twist the rod and it should pull right out. (there was a post eariler about how to put holes in beads/chimes...

You can also go to a welding supply store and buy stainless steel rods, cut them into short lengths. Coat them with bead release/bead seperator. and put them between your glass. When you are done fusing, they pull right out and can be reused once they are recoated w/separator. I tried the copper wir...

Mark, When I frist started fusing I did some fusing of Armstrong and Kokomo glass. I wasn't really happy with the results. Lots of devit. problems. I f you use an over spray, then it may not matter to you. I believe both manufacturers have literature about fusing with their glass. You certainly can ...

Deena, You might want to consider putting a counter (?) weight on your lid. I have done that with several of my kilns especially my coffin kiln. All I did was go to the hardward store and buy some twisted wire cable and pulleys. I put a hook in the ceiling with the pulley on it. Because I didn't wan...

Caseyalb, I had a simular problem with a new top fire kiln I bought. Even though I vaccuumed it good it still was dropping stuff into my glass. Finally, I took our air compressor on a low pressure and blew out the grooved area on the lid. I think that when they route out the grooves for the elements...

Aimee, I have a question for you. Was this the first time you used that particular bullseye mold? I have found that on several of my Bullseye molds, the first time I slump into them I get bubbles in my glass. I doesn't seem to happen after that, just that first time. I thought that perhaps I needed ...

Nanc, Let me add one more suggestion to the mix. I make 12" single layer pieces with multiple layer design elements stacked on top. In some places my glass may be 4-5 layers thick and in others only 1 layer. In Graham Stones book on kiln schedules, he talks about a "catch-up" firing. ...

Deb, I have been teaching out of my studio for about 10 years. When I first started teaching I talked to an attorney and my insurance agent. I don't have teaching insurance, but what I have always done is; The first thing I cover in class is a list of safety procedures. I read through the list and e...

I love this discussion. I have taught for a number of years. It seems every job I have ever had I ended up teaching. I like to think that I am a good teacher. I try very hard to incorporate many of the things that people have mentioned. I try to read my student and teach to their skill and character...

In regards to what to do with scrap glass. I teach at the local Community College that has a stained glass and fusing program. They were just throwing their glass in the trash. Here in Oregon all the schools are hurting for funding, special projects, etc. To make a short story long, I have contacted...

I think this is an interesting discussion. I have re-flattened and refused. Most of the time I believe is has worked fine. Mostly when I have a problem that would make me want to do this, I assume that the glass is already used/wasted and any salvage effort i can make would be ok with me. Sometimes ...

Kay, I don't fuse/slump with float glass. Though I have had a simular experience. Only part of the glass was cloudy. Since the mold, kiln wash and my normal cleaning procedure were the same and the only variable was the glass,(float glass instead of 90 Coe glass) my assumption was that it was this r...

Thanks Charlie,
Tin not steel.

Kay, I believe the reason for the cloudiness is the float glass. Float glass is made by "floating" the glass on a pool of molten steel. This leaves a film on one side of the glass. If you slump with that side up you will get the effect you are talking about. There is a way to check for the...