WarmGlass.com

Mike-

How about this?

http://www.redhotmetal.net/glassblowing-cane-cutter/

The guy who makes it says it does. At least beer bottles...

http://www.crazycrusher.com/videos.html

Call Kat at Uroboros. I am 100% sure she will work it out for you.

Guy

I haven't been able to find the ones that type I like either. Most are too thick and bulky, but I think I am going to try this place...

http://jenessco.com/index3368.html?cPath=28_33

I am going to order the 3rd style from the top.

Just FYI.


Guy

It's funny, out of literally thousands of pieces, only had a problem like this once before and that was on a cast piece. It turned out (and that's necessarily to let Thinfire off the hook) but if I flip them and use the clear/stringer sheet as a cap and put the blue on the bottom, the shmutz is gone...

My logic is so that way anything that may be in there other than glass such as Thinfire, humidity, any types of adhesive I may have used, etc. have a way to escape. And I don't think it slows firings down, nor do I think it wastes much energy.

Really just figured it would give me a better finish. In my head, nothing is ever good enough so I am always trying to find a better way.

No, but this is the first time I've ever fired anything from BE other than some casting billets. Someone else pm'd me and said it happens with BE's steel blues unless you somehow cap with clear. When I first bought the glass it struck me for whatever reason, that it must have a fair amount of copper...

Hi Dave- Actually after I wrote the last note, that is what I decided to try. I combined your and Rosanna's advice. If that doesn't do the trick I will just go to KW. My shelves are coated and in good shape anyway, I just thought using Thinfire the pieces might come out even better. I will see this ...

Thank you all. I think the easiest thing to try first is eliminating the TF and lowering the initial hold. Normally my schedules are a bit more logical than this, but I started thinking to keep the glass in the heat as short a time as possible. Dave, I just popped an entire sheet of paper in and lay...

I have sort of a run of the mill problem, but I'm pulling my hair out because no matter what I do, I can't solve it. I was hoping someone here might have some useful input. I am starting to make a ton of frames for a customer, and I am using Bullseye because they specified it. I normally use 96 stuf...

Hi again-

Upon reflection I was making it harder than it had to be (if you knew me you would know just how shocking that is.)

Anyway you could slump a regular bottle, etch it, and color fill it with regular enamels (like the existing bottle), no reason to put it back into the kiln again.

Guy

Yes. It will burn off. I do lots of bottle etching, and that is a classic example of regular old paint. I would bet anything on it. Now if you want to reproduce, it... You can etch a flattened bottle and color fill it with enamels for Brad or Thompson or someone like that and it will work. Guy ps If...

Is it printed on the surface or recessed below the surface? If it is below, it's been etched and color filled. These pieces are usually filled with regular paint (usually enamels) of some type and it will burn off. If it is on the surface and if it was printed with an epoxy based ink it will burn of...

Thanks. One of the zillions of things I start and never finish around here. Actually it's etched/sandblasted/carved, whatever one would prefer to call it. I vary the thickness of glass by varying the layers, etch through them and then (usually) fuse back onto clear to the desired thickness. I'm dyin...

There is another options to HF, it is still fairly dangerous, and I have never personally seen the results so I can't swear to anything. But disclaimers being said, it is called something like Sugar Acid etching, I read about it in Henry Halem's book (which I would highly recommend to anyone doing a...

Haydo-

You are right on the money. The insides squish out / move much faster and further than the top and bottom.

Here are a couple of photo that show it. 4 - 1/8" layers between two shelves.

Guy

Hi Bert-

Really really nice!

Guy

Take a look at Barry Kaiser's info and materials.

http://www.kaiserglass.com/

For what it's worth you can get copper sulphate from a pottery supply house. Will it do the same thing? I have no idea, but it seems like a logical starting point. The pottery place around here sells a pound for about 20 bucks, so not too big an investment. It seems like the main difference between ...