WarmGlass.com

I agree who you most of the year. I live in Minnesota. My kiln was set at 75 and I turned it off to load it. Went in the house for less than a hour. The kiln had already dropped to 29. That is why I keep it at 75 until I can unload it.

I have done some of my fuses with the starting temp of 20 in the kiln, going at 250/per. But I do make sure the temp goes down slowly all the way to 75 and holds until I will be able to get the glass out of the kiln.

I use jringglass. They seem to have good prices.

On Fusedglass.org under tools, there is a calculator you can use. It gives the weight that you need to use.

Glass Patterns Quarterly is a good magazine.

Glass wants to be 6mm after a full fuse. If you use the thinner glass it will shrink up until it is 6mm thick. When you do jewelry making you are using many layers.
I don't see a bubble squeeze in your program. You might want to put one in if you do something very large.

I like my Olympic kiln. I would get a square one, no matter which company you go with.

I have the Olympic GF314ETLC. I like it. Being a clam shell makes it easy to load, but it also opens from the top which is handy.