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All of the above right but old technique works the best. I use stainless steel molds over twenty years with single coat of RUST-OLEUM HIGH PERFORMANCE ENAMEL ALUMINUM spray # 7515. no pre firing , dry in ten minutes and at the end of the slumping wash it of and do it again. use it to slumping temps ...

yes , i did only with solid opalescent colors, blue, yellow, orange and res with uro 96 on top in case of vitrification and the thickness, large pieces too. just full fuse never try to slump it

first , I'm a bullseye guy, fusing 90 the last 30 years. but I'm also teaching fusing for kids in art camp that the price matter. so about ten years ago i assumed that spectrum glass is compatible 96 by definition and in the worse case i will have some devitrification issues. i did a few test bars o...

sorry for the delay but I'm doing glass in delhi lately so some time zones...a few things to clarify . used the spray version 7515 for years on ss all kind. spray dry a few minutes and slump. depend on the shape,size and depth between 1200-1350 beautiful smooth finish, no residue stick to the glass....

never used BN but using stainless for slumping many years and loving it... I'm using aluminum spray for under $ 5 a can. check well in the ingredients , you don't want silvery tin or other metallic paint. Rust-Oleum number 7515, never failed up to 1350 degrees, burn above, good luck