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Unfortunately, I seem to have an never ending supply of broken kiln shelves. Last month I had another series of break downs - 3 shelves in an week.

Or, or course, just do a flip of purpose.

A wee note on thick tack fused items:
Tack fuses are much more difficult to adequately anneal than full fused ones. This may have an effect while cutting.

For thinner pieces (say up to 9mm) I notice no difference. Thicker may produce the blue cast, although I like it better than the blue green of float or the amber of S100SFS.
Personal taste.
Still compatible with the SFS

and batt wash is the ceramics version

Try out the education section of the Bullseye Glass site. There is a lot of good information there that will apply to all fusing glasses, although temperatures may need to be tweaked. http://www.bullseyeglass.com/all-methods.html Brad gives good information in the tutorial on this site that will be ...

Cynthia MOrgan has also published on her blog another way to make a stainless steel mesh. She uses ss rods pushed into fire brick to make the grid. Easy to replace, usually easy to find rod. See her blog Morganica for more information

" I will convert the Celsius to Fahrenheit so it makes it easier to read. I will try to include all the extra information that you have asked for. I guess I have a whole lot of things going wrong with my temperatures. " Don't pamper to the lazy Americans, Alieen. They need to get with the ...

imartine, If you can get a full slump in 5 minutes, you are firing higher than you need. You want the glass to move gently to the shape you require. The fewer angles on the mould the lower temperature you can use. I generally believe that you should take at least 30 mins to do the slump. With the co...

Seachange,
If your piece has completely slumped by 650ºC, then you can achieve the slump at a lower temperature with a soak. Doing so should provide fewer marks on the bottom of the glass.
With your larger mould, the slump will occur earlier, because of the increased span and weight.

"So I have a 5"x5" plate i made. 3 layers of glass that got a big bubble where two pieces of glass i cut meet. iv learned about longer bubble press times since then but the piece still remains. What will happen if slump it into a dish mold i have? will the bubble pop? what if i flippe...

Looks like I may have misunderstood.
Go with Morganica's suggestions. She has much more experience than I do

You could also try capping with a clear piece that is slightly (1-2MM) larger than the dichroic (not diagonal). This will increase the lens effect, but may often leave a clear edge all the way around. If this is going to be placed on another piece, it will not be noticeable.

Larger frit and longer soaks at the 677ºC area will help reduce bubbles

Well, sometimes two glasses find out they're no longer compatible. Glass grows old and changes, and suddenly they're no longer interested in the same thing. Some glass wants to be optometric glass, while the other wants to be decoration. It's especially difficult on the glass children. Satire. Right?

Yes. the coolur will become more faint

Lots of bubbles from your fine frit give the gray appearance

Yes you can fire both S96 and Bullseye in the same firing. At a fuse temperature of 800ºC, the S96 will be flatter than Bullseye. Sounds to me like you are doing a slump (moulds), so there should not be a problem. The annealing soak at the annealing point is a temperature equalisation measure, so yo...

Your slumping temperature is high. 1200 to 1250 F should be enough.

And if you do the maths in the metric system it is even more simple.