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Seachange,
If you have calculated volume in the metric system, you multiply that by the specific gravity (2.5 as you said)
Stephen

I apologize for thinking that there might be alternatives for 96 COE users. I didn't understand that Bullseye "believers" would be quite so intolerant of other alternatives. I have a lot of 96 glass that I would like to use and do not plan on switching to Bullseye in the near future if I ...

my experience is that Kokomo opals do not react nicely to fusing temperatures - severe devit. Wispies are no better. Transparents and streakies are a bit better and do need devit sprays. Their compatibiilty is variable within their own range. How they would fit to System 96 is therefore suspect. Eit...

You mention that the T plate was 4 layers. your annealing schedule is far too fast for 12mm thick

I do mine outside with a GFI in the electrical line.

Yes, this machine will work. You will have to get better (and preferably thinner) blades for it. The discs sold with these are poor quality and loose their diamonds quickly.
Gert your rain gear out as they spray water all over the operator,.

I have used boron nitirde on stainless steel moulds and moved back to kiln wash as I found it just as effective and cheaper. It now appears that the current formulations perform better than the one I used long ago. This leaves me with come questions. Some people are applying it to ceramic moulds for...

Don, I'd want to know if they are firing as fast as they can; what kind of breaks - tears in the flash, complete splits, shatters I don't imagine the flash is really thick, although I have seen some flashed Lamberts green where the flash was thicker than the clear, so I don't imagine the difference ...

Soak time at ramp 5a should be 60minutes, not none.

Another suggestion is to make a ring of fibre board to support the glass outside the mould. This assumes you make a larger disc than the mould diameter and use the fire board ring to support the "excess" glass. This also helps to reduce the risk of uneven slumping. However it will almost c...

For some reason you do not have a soak at the annealing temperature. This soak is important to equalise the temperature throughout the glass before going on to the annealing cool. If your sharp edges are needle points, you need to use some means of grinding them off. You need to work down in grit si...

Thanks, Bert
S

I don't understand all of what you said. But here are some comments. Borax solution. The cup of water needs to be heated to get the maximum saturation of the solution. It does not have to boil. When cool, pour off from sediment and add a drop or two of washing up liquid. The spots you observe are de...

Who came up with that mould? High level of difficulty in that one, I would say. It is probably going to take higher and longer than you expected. You said you observed. Why did you stop the slump before it completed? YOu may find it easier if you give the glass a gentle slump in ball mould before pu...

Bert,
For my education.
Are you saying that compressing the tin layer in a stack of glass will not cause the tin bloom except on the outer layers?
Thanks.

In my view that bubble has to do with too high a temperature and too long a soak. Holes are not the problem, the distance from the floor or the elements is not the problem. The problems relate to too high a temperature. this shape can be slumped at 630C in 20mins. Higher and longer allows the glass ...

OK. As fast as possible to 740C, off

This is one method that does not need firing before use.
http://glasstips.blogspot.co.uk/2015/07 ... ngers.html

Depends in large part how much of base is to be covers by the nex two layers. It would be possible in some circumstances to dam the piece to stop the flow. Cutting clear to fill the space between the image and the rest of the piece would restrict the flow of the image. Go slow

Look at the tutorial on this website. It will give you a lot of the information you need