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Thanks Brad. I misnamed the right relay. The one I used last, is actually called a contractor. I did have the right mental picture of what is supposed to happen. That kiln has 3 zones, so I used two 3 pole normally open contactors. I believe you directed me to this model. Zoro Item G2315381 Definite...

I believe the best kiln configuration is the bell kiln, followed by the clamshell. I don't like it that clamshells only open up on 3 sides. I would set up the hinge sitting well behind the kiln, so when it swings open, there is air flowing 360º around. I have a front loader that is 35 years old. I d...

Carol, I would call Digitry and ask. They are engineers and should have a clue.

Mark, I have only ever worked with single pole single throw relays like in Brad's drawings. One side of 240v single phase power is connected directly to one side of the element and the other side goes through the relay. When the relay is open, the elements do not get hot. However if you touch an ele...

My opinion is that 950 is too hot for the soak, Bullseye suggests 900. Hey Bert - if she's using System 96 - why shouldn't she soak at 950, as recommended by Spectrum? Barb I wonder why Spectrum suggests this in the first place? Back in the 1980's I tested both Bullseye and 96 for anneal point char...

Chris Lowry wrote:So I carved out a vermiculite board to make a slumping mold... Do I need to put kiln wash on it before slumping?

I think no but the wife doesn't agree with me and now I'm doubting myself.

Yes! a generous coating. V board has a wicked tendency to stick to glass when both are hot.

Hi Bert, Thank you very much for your comments. You are right, any time the kiln is running unnecessarily it's a huge waste on multiple levels. Annealing at a lower temp makes a lot of sense given the mass of thicker glass. I will study more about this. I've seen you guys recommend the Graham Stone...

My opinion is that 950 is too hot for the soak, Bullseye suggests 900. If I am correct, you wasted 3 hours soaking above the anneal range and then the anneal actually took place during the drop to 850, which was speedy. The soaks on the way up were a monumental waste of time and energy. I would just...

Thanks Brad. That is a useful drawing. I am wracking my brain to remember, but I think I had to put some device between the hitemp alarm output and the contactor. The output from the controller had to be somehow transformed so it could control the contactor. I used to put a fast acting fuse between ...

I agree with Brad here, but I do it only slightly differently. I use a mechanical DPDT contactor attached to a hitemp limit circuit with a light switch, and a SPST SSR controlling the kiln. This setup allows you to remove all power to the elements when you want safety, and control the elements the m...

I saw somewhere that one of the major kiln manufacturers came up with a control box design (on the side of a hot kiln) where the aluminum heatsink sits on the outside of the box, while the relay itself is situated inside the box. They routinely ship these to Europe.

http://www.eurothermonline.com/Zelio_SSP1_Series-Single_Channel_SSR-Panel_Mount Like Brad posted you need the relay, a heatsink, and either a pad or liquid heat transfer goo. They just changed brands starting in January, so call and ask which model you need. With solid state relays you can configur...

Yes, grind up some scrap board, mix with rigidizer and spackle the board. If you have already used colloidal silica rigidizer, go ahead and use that. The boards are originally made with colloidal alumina rigidizer. This is less sticky to the glass being fired.

http://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/7515838.pdf I looked up the melting point of aluminum and it says 1221ºF. Interesting report that it works to 1350. I wonder if there are any paints where the solid ingredient is some colored mica. I bet that would work better. I suspect that aluminum refers to...

Rust-Oleum number 7515 --- Fumes/Health ???? http://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/7515838.pdf I looked up the melting point of aluminum and it says 1221ºF. Interesting report that it works to 1350. I wonder if there are any paints where the solid ingredient is some colored mica. I bet that would w...

I use regular 304 stainless, which is the most common grade. I have used very thin and up to ⅛" thick. It just works. Remember that glass shrinks more than stainless. I have spherical shaped molds that will grab the glass if cooled all the way to room temp. When warm the glass will come out. If...

Speed always kills glass. Must be slow learners too if they continue to have the problem. :lol: That of course is what you can get if you try sourcing knowledge from there instead of here. #-o You already know the answer, dark colours absorb heat faster, there is uneven heating of the piece due to ...

You can get silicone epoxy that comes in 2 parts. Some are clear and others not.

I am a fan of using L screws. They are minimally visible, and will not let the load fall off.

We anneal glass better than the factories that make it. At the factory, every second translates to dollars. For us, we want to fire up and down in a day. That said, if you have fused glasses that are not all that compatible, those stresses will come out to play when you cut. Most likely you can just...

Your glass is probably cracking due to thermal shock. Slow down.