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This is all so helpful.. I am making copious notes.. one more concern.. the glass is only 1/4" thick, slightly less in some areas. I am concerned that it is not thick enough for shipping, and am considering fusing again with added glass for more strength-- which will be difficult and may compro...

This is not an extremely costly piece, so the trip (although I would love to visit Boston!) would not be worth it.

Thanks for all the packaging info. I just heard back from the client, who said to take our chances w/ UPS. I will be in the room when he boxes it, I assure you!

thanks, Bert. UPS will put on a truck if it is over-sized, which we will do. But my trust level is not 100%. Freightquote does not box. I am looking for a company that will do both. I assume you crate it yourself.. can you provide advice on how to do that? This is a rectangular, 2' x 4' piece by 1/4...

Howdy.. I need to ship a 2' x 4' flat piece of fused glass across the country. Have run into some tragic situations w/ a naive UPS guy with shipping this size. He packaged incorrectly. Have worked another UPS man with more luck, but this is bigger and flat, and I have concerns. He says he will doubl...

Yes, Marian, it did work. I also covered the repaired crack with a few other smaller fused elements, which disguised it. It is hanging on a wall, and the repaired area has no stress on it, so I assume it will last forever. FYI- Loctite E-30CL Epoxy does have some thickness to it, unlike Hxtal. re: t...

thanks.. I shall test it.

I am about to do a pot melt with 3 small standard looking red clay pots, bought at Menards. When I drilled the extra holes, the material did not behave like clay, was harder, and was almost black. I would assume clay would have a diferent color and consistency. The residue that I get by wiping these...

okay- I stand corrected..Rustoleum makes a Automotive High Heat Paint..goes to 2000, and can hold at high temps. (some paints can't take heat for a long while).

Will keep you posted on the progress of my rid-my-kiln-of-rust adventure...

thanks for all the feedback.. I have called several maufacturers of high temp paints..so far- none that works in a kiln to go at 1500 for any length of time. still waitng to hear back from L & L on this (maufacturare of the kiln), but I don't think I will get much info. I may do the rust removal...

is there such a paint that withstands high temps and is not toxic? That would be terrific..please let me know.

good morning all, we are about to embark on this task..took the front wall layer of blanket out (it was hanging down, anyway, at this point!)..and there was so much rust, thick nasty sheets of it! The blanket I was able to buy is 1" thick, so we will double layer it. I will have to cover the re...

Thanks so much, Laurie.

I guess I am concerned that after all the work, and the metal is now raw under the blanket, what is to prevent the rust from happening again?

Hi Laurie, how is your rust issue doing, and how did you resolve it? the rust in my genesis is getting out of control..I tried to vacuum underneath the blanket, but the blanket did separate from the metal sides, and it is now falling aprt.. I need to get all the blanket out, scrape all the rust, and...

I used only system 96. Everything was compatible. So, the only disease I was dealing with was my own lack of discarding a contaminated towel that I used to clean the glass. Never again.

each day is a learning experience in a glass studio.

I can't hand polish, as the elements I tack fused on are many, and shaped in a way that would make it impossible. And I am looking for high gloss. I will attend to this when the blizzard we are having (so far, easily a foot of snow in one day), subsides. I will post results then. Keeping my fingers ...

The specs on Spray A Plus say "fire to a min. of 1300". Although usually go to 1370, to fuse, I hope this time the 1300 will be sufficient for Sray A to do its magic.

I do use Spary A on a regular basis. I was wondering if the steaks on the glass, which might be a chemical bonding of epoxy into the surface, would be eradicated by Spray A. The pieces is flat, so slumping isn't an issue. But I don't want to ruin the tack fused elements by refiring too high. So, 130...

I don't think that is the issue. I use system 96, and the only bloom on my glass, I believe, (now that I have played thought extensively about this for 48 hours), is residue epoxy on a rag that I might have used. It is the only explantion I can think of. So, I will try a product called MEK, but I be...

I did try the muriatic acid..nothing.

As I said, the scum appeared months after the art was completed, and perfect! so, this is very worrisome.

Maybe.... there was a paper towel in the studio with expoxy on it..and perhaps I picked it up and wiped the glass with it to clean it.

in thinking about this, it almost appears that I wiped the glass with a rag that corroded it.. the rag may not have been clean...

are there any chemicals in a typical fusing that, when accidentally combined, corrode or leave a residue on glass that is hard to remove?? I.e. alcohol, windex, etc?