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The first firing of my investment molds produces a considerable amount of smoke. Enough to set off the smoke detectors in my studio. I vent the kiln (till 1100deg.) and I also have two exhaust fans that can't seem to keep up. One of the fans is 400cfm the other 150cfm. Of course I could get a more p...

That begs the question of how exactly to flatten a design such as this...would love to hear your approach! How do you do this without distorting the design?
(Something I have thought about myself for other projects and have not found a tequnique for, yet)

Suzette, thanks for your follow-up post. It is enlightening to hear how people's experiments/explorations turn out. It really rounds out a post and adds to the forum/archive. So often the post just fizzles and no one hears the outcome. Hoping more folks also share their results. Cheers.

Castalot? Really? Are there any kiln casters out there who have actually had any success with this product? I can see how you can maybe make a mold without ANY DETAIL (perhaps A smooth bowl or plate). For any kind of detail tho, it has not worked for me. The glass comes out with rough, hazy finish, ...

Not sure the plastic diffuser will withstand the heat of my kiln.
This is a casting mold to create glass tiles. In my search I found a Chinese company that makes similar out of corderite but not only are there designs in the squares, I would need to order 200. I'm hoping to find just one.

Does anyone know where to buy one of these? I found this on warmglass UK but it is out of stock. I have done an exhaustive Google search and couldn't seem to find another source. I would love to get my hands on one. Any leads would be much appreciated.

Are we talking about drying the kilnwash or curing/pre-firing? The original question asked about 'curing'. My container of Primo kilnwash suggests curing. Can somebody please explain what this curing is meant to achieve?

Wow. You've definitely done your research. Looks like an interesting project. Just out of curiosity, what is the part intended for? Here are some early thoughts... If you make your molds out of plaster / silica, it is unlikely that you will get more than one piece of glass per mold. After a full fus...

I watched the video and indeed there doesn't appear to be any kiln wash on the mold (no coloring). I have no idea how they get such a beautiful finish on the glass without. Can't wait to hear from the forum about this. I have tried many different plasters/ refractory mixes and have yet to find one t...

C R and Loo. They have some of the best prices, all the colors and good customer service. If they dont have the color in stock, they will order it for you. And you don't need a wholesale account.

Hi Eric, If you're only firing to a top temp of 1450, you haven't really reached a full fuse temp yet. Also increase your hold time. 5-15 min is not long enough. Try 1485 with a hold of at least 35 min. As Cynthia said, it can take up to 4 hrs for some molds. The glass in the bottom of your mold is ...

Since bubbles are an inherent part of frit casting, is there any point in doing a long bubble squeeze? From my experiments, it doesn't seem that I get any significant decrease in bubbles even with a long hold at 1250, so can I shorten this part of my firing schedule? Has anyone eliminated all bubble...

Hi All, I seem to remember someone mentioning they fire bullseye and uruborus in the same firing but can't find the thread. Is this possible and if so, how do you anneal for this? One stop at bullseye annealing temp, another at 96 temp? A hybrid temp? How about the full fuse temp? Just soak longer t...

I would like to cast some glass using glass pieces I find at my local thrift shop. I'm not worried about compatibility (I won't be mixing it with any other glass) just wondering what annealing temperature to use.

Hi all. Lately, I've been having a problem with my kilnwash flaking off during firing. Here is what I can't figure out... I frit cast in two part molds, the base part which creates the design and a "lid" to press the glass. I use the same refractory plaster to make both parts of the mold a...

Hi All, Does anyone have a good Internet source for uruborus frit in 4 lb jars? I have done countless Google searches and have found some places that will special order but none that stock. 'Special order' can mean 8 weeks. Needless to say, sometimes It's hard to wait that long. I live in the great ...

Hi Karen, Do you fire your pieces dirrectly on a kiln shelf? Are you perhaps using a new or different kiln shelf? Or, if you are using an older or the same kiln shelf (you said that you haven't changed anything else), has it perhaps degraded some after many firings? What I'm thinking is that perhaps...

Here is a picture of what I have been trying to describe. The clear glass around the blue is only a background I used for the photo and is not part of the piece. So is this Devit or something else?

I do dry my molds thoroughly before loading them with glass. Luckily they are one the small side and dry fairly quickly: 3-7 days on a drying rack, on top ( outside) of the kiln during a firing, and then in the kiln for 2 hours at 290 deg. This is all before the first shard of glass comes anywhere c...

I saw a web page mentions that skutt kins had sent out a warning that alumina hydrate radically shortens the lifespan of your electric kiln elements. Anyone heard that before?
http://www.potters.org/subject00470.htm