Silver Clay and Glass Molds

sallie4str · Post by **sallie4str** » Tue Mar 18, 2003 3:08 pm

Has anyone used silver clay inside glass?
Is it even possible?
The COE of Silver is 191, is it possible to layer the glass on either side of the silver and give the illusion of encasement?
I am going for a concept, any ideas are welcome?

Pat Zmuda · Post by **Pat Zmuda** » Tue Mar 18, 2003 6:02 pm

Back when there were only two versions of silver metal clay I experimented with PMC (regular) fused inside glass, and some of my results were published in Jewelry Crafts magazine. It can work if the PMC piece is small, thin, and previously fired, although you do run the risk of silver stain on the glass. The silver clays seem to work much better fused on the outside of the glass, especially the newer versions (as I understand it) because of shorter firing times and other different qualities. I've gone on to other things, so I can't advise you on the newer versions. Try asking at http://www.pmclay.com or experiment yourself and see what you come up with!

KatyPattison · Post by **KatyPattison** » Tue Mar 18, 2003 6:52 pm

I fused a small (1/2" x 1/4") of fired and burnished ACS between black and clear COE 90. The silver seems to have stayed the same colour, no yellowing from what I can see, but it is hard to tell because of all the bubbles on its surface. The cleaned and fired ACS piece was textured and so the bubbles were expected. The piece has not cracked and it has been about 6 weeks.

Hope that helps some
Katy

Elisa Cossey · Post by **Elisa Cossey** » Wed Mar 19, 2003 10:33 am

I teach PMC. We have a product that is a sheet. You can cut it with scissors, punch it with a decorative punch, etc. After cutting to the desired shape you should fire it first. Polish it and then it can be used under your glass. If you don't want discoloration of the glass use Bullseye crystal clear on top. It will not discolor the clear top. Heavier pieces in between have always cracked on me.

You can also use PMC3 around the outside. Fire the glass first then make your PMC design around the glass and then fire. You can then burnish the PMC to the desired finish. Now I mostly make jewelry pieces so experimentation with the larger ones is always suggested.

PMC+ has to fire to 1650 for 10 minutes, PMC3 only has to fire to the minimum of 1110 for 30 minutes. Always double check the directions. There is a book by Mary Ann Devos that I highly recommend called Introduction to PMC. It will give you all you need to know about PMC and a good basis to do experimemtation.

PMC+ & 3 will shrink approximately 10% so if size is important allow for the shrinkage.

I hope this helps. I have pieces of glass and PMC on my website if you want to look. If you need further info please ask. It's early and my brain hasn't had enough cafeine yet to be really clear

http://www.luvtobead.com

sallie4str · Post by **sallie4str** » Wed Mar 19, 2003 12:12 pm

Thanks for all your input!

I will work on some small pieces to start.
Also I will try to work with a wax form behind the glass in a mold and then use the sheet or paste silver to paint inside the space created with the wax.
And suggestions on that approach

sallie4str · Post by **sallie4str** » Wed Mar 19, 2003 12:24 pm

oh i will fire the pmc first

Elisa Cossey · Post by **Elisa Cossey** » Wed Mar 19, 2003 2:34 pm

I've never done that. Let me think on it awhile. I've come down with a cold and I'm not thinking to straight today!