I want to build my own light box. Help?

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Cynthia

I want to build my own light box. Help?

Post by Cynthia »

I want to build my own light box to use for building pieces on, look at slides...read glass colors when they are layered.....

They seem simple but are so expensive. I'm thinkin 18"-20" or thereabouts would be a good size. Size will depend upon what lengths fluorescent tubes come in...or are there better lighting options.

Any suggestions on how to go about this?

I was thinking fluorescent bulbs, frosted plexi, a frame for the plexi that is deep enough to house the fluorescents...

Do I need a fan? Any thoughts about how to install the lights and wire so that I only have one cord?

It doesn't have to be pretty, just useful.

Clearly I only have a vague idea of how to go about this, but figured one, or many of you have already tackled this kind of project and might have good info to share.

Thanks.
Bert Weiss
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Re: I want to build my own light box. Help?

Post by Bert Weiss »

Cynthia wrote:I want to build my own light box to use for building pieces on, look at slides...read glass colors when they are layered.....

They seem simple but are so expensive. I'm thinkin 18"-20" or thereabouts would be a good size. Size will depend upon what lengths fluorescent tubes come in...or are there better lighting options.

Any suggestions on how to go about this?

I was thinking fluorescent bulbs, frosted plexi, a frame for the plexi that is deep enough to house the fluorescents...

Do I need a fan? Any thoughts about how to install the lights and wire so that I only have one cord?

It doesn't have to be pretty, just useful.

Clearly I only have a vague idea of how to go about this, but figured one, or many of you have already tackled this kind of project and might have good info to share.

Thanks.
Cynthia

I built a nice lightbox using float glass on top with white polystyrene underneath the glass. White plexi will work also. My box is 4' x 8' so I used a less expensive diffuser and I like it just fine. I suggest using daylight colored fluorescent bulbs. I think you can get 24" tubes. I would make a plywood box around 12" deep to get the bulbs away from the top. You shouldn't need a fan.

If you use polystyrene, it comes in a 4' x 8' sheet and is inexpensive. I seem to recall that there are 2 thicknesses available, get the thinner one. You can use the rest of the sheet to make a photo backdrop. Rig it up so that the plastic drapes down and comes to rest on the light box. You can play around with how you light it. Photos made with light actually coming through the bottom can be good.

Having a larger light box can be nice if you want to paint on it. Real estate is good.
Last edited by Bert Weiss on Sat Nov 15, 2003 1:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bert

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Brock
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Post by Brock »

Build a 6" or 8" deep box, to house the fluorescents of your choice, 18" or 24". Screw cleats 1/4' down from the top edge and use 1/4" glass sandblasted on the bottom as your viewing surface. You don't need a fan with fluorescents, put an in-line switch on your power cord. Good to go. Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
Tony Serviente
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Post by Tony Serviente »

Go with as much depth for the bulbs as you can get. The closer the bulbs to the diffuser, the less even the lighting. If it is going to be a big table, like Berts, you have to consider some kind of support for the glass. Unless you're using something heavier than quarter inch, it will need some kind of help. I used rectangles made of quarter inch on edge to support the top, to minimize the effect they's have on the lighting. If you are never going to put anything of serious weight on top, you could get away unsupported, but I have always managed to put heavy stuff on my light table, and was glad to have it well reinforced. Also, think about bulb access. Make it easy to get inside to change tubes or ballasts. I made mine with a combination of fluorescents and incandescents. The regular bulbs are on a dimmer, hardly ever use them but nice when I need it. Only other thing I would suggest for a big table is to make a cover for the top, so it can double as a bench.
Ron Coleman
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Post by Ron Coleman »

Kevin Midgley
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Post by Kevin Midgley »

The 4 foot long flourescent tubes always are cheaper. Buy a shop light fixture that comes with a built in switch or pull cord and all you have to do is plug it in. You can leave the reflector on or remove it for generalized lighting. Follow other suggestions for building the table. Bigger is better. Kevin
Greg Rawls
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Post by Greg Rawls »

Go to Home Depot and buy a pre-made square florescent fixture of the size you want the light box to be, a heavy duty extension cord and some 1/4" egg crate difuser. Cut off the socket end and wire to the fixture. Cut the difuse to fit under the difuser that came with the fixture (adds strength). Works great with little effort!
Greg
Liam
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Post by Liam »

My light tabel is has a 2x4 top, with a hole in the middle that accepts a 18x 36 1/4"glass sheet. I taped wax paper to the bottom of the sheet to difuse the light. Some day I'll get around to sandblasting it.

From chains I hung a shelf under it that has 2- 3foot double florecent fixtures and it makes more than enough light. I don't like incandectent or halogen bulbs because the glass gets hot to touch. To change the bulbs I release 2 chains and the shelf drops down. Over the whole light table I put another peice of plywood for a work surface.
This was my first table/light-table and I like it so well I still have it 8 years later. Ive gotten into beads now and I mounted a bunch of new stuff to it for that, and put a sheet of steal over it. It just keeps growing
Brian and Jenny Blanthorn
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Re: I want to build my own light box. Help?

Post by Brian and Jenny Blanthorn »

Cynthia wrote:I want to build my own light box to use for building pieces on, look at slides...read glass colors when they are layered.....

They seem simple but are so expensive. I'm thinkin 18"-20" or thereabouts would be a good size. Size will depend upon what lengths fluorescent tubes come in...or are there better lighting options.

Any suggestions on how to go about this?

I was thinking fluorescent bulbs, frosted plexi, a frame for the plexi that is deep enough to house the fluorescents...

Do I need a fan? Any thoughts about how to install the lights and wire so that I only have one cord?

It doesn't have to be pretty, just useful.

Clearly I only have a vague idea of how to go about this, but figured one, or many of you have already tackled this kind of project and might have good info to share.

Thanks.
If Ur gonna wanna do paintin then U want a cool top or it dries out

So arrange vents in the box + cool lights

I go one made out of very thick glass

Brian
Image
Cynthia

Post by Cynthia »

Thanks to all of you. I am heading out to Lowes today to see what I can find in the way of fluorescents. I wonder if I have fluorescents under, but halogen light or natural light from the top, if the colors of the glass (neo lav as a good example) will read true.

If I can find full spectrum or "daylight", I'll simply get those...

I'm toying with the idea of cutting a hole in my work table and mounting a box to the bottom of the table with a plexi piece as the diffuser that is level with the surface of the table.

By the by...why do the majority of you recommend frosted glass over plexi?
charlie
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Post by charlie »

glass is stiffer for the same thickness of plastic. plexiglass is a trademark name for plastic sheet, btw, so you may not find it directly named plexiglass.

a hole would work. a slide out drawer would be better. i cut on top of mine, so that's an added benefit as i don't have to draw on glass or make patterns. that only works on glass that light will go through easily though.
Chip
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Post by Chip »

If you haven't had any luck with a light table, I have a set of plans that I just came across that look really good. If you want, I can send them to you.
Image
Chip
Micah 6.8
daffodildeb
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Post by daffodildeb »

If you don't want the hassle-factor of building a light box, try an X-ray viewer. They have them on Ebay all the time. Worked for me!
Deb
Cynthia

Post by Cynthia »

Here's what I ended up doing and it worked very well for this job.

I cut a rectangular opening in a piece of particle board and siliconed a piece of 1/4" plexi onto that. Frosted the back with a can of Rustoleum that is for frosting plexi.... Set this jury rigged excuse for a light table onto two saw horses and snapped three clamp lamps onto the legs of the saw horses pointing up to the "light table". The lamps keep my knees warm...rather nice bonus since my studio is chilly in the winter.

I am downsizing my studio big time, and after shopping for fixtures and seeing how big the thing was going to be, I opted for the $25.00 light table that I can slip in the slots with my glass when I don't need it. IT worked perfectly for what I wanted it for. the plastic scratches, but that seems not to be an issue. I can look at slides on it too, and set up and tear down suits my current needs.

Thanks for all the good info and the time you took to give it to me. If anyone is interested in this high tech version of a light table, feel free to use my plans. :D
peter asche
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Location: maine

Post by peter asche »

I have had some luck using a glass topped dining table from IKEA...one style even has a mesh-metal shelf underneath that will hold flourescant light fixtures...
Bob Paterson
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Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2003 5:46 pm
Location: Texas

Post by Bob Paterson »

Definitely check out Ikea. I bought a table the other day that comes with a 3 by 5ish foot frosted tempered glass top. You can put flourescents under the table. The table was $149.

Here are a couple of options from Ikea:

http://www.ikea-usa.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... 0121*10391


http://www.ikea-usa.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... 0121*10391

The table I purchased is not on the website but comes with adjustable height legs with cross braces that can be used to invert a flourescent fixture.

Bob
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