Fixing Sagging Elements - WarmGlass.com

Fixing Sagging Elements

This is the main board for discussing general techniques, tools, and processes for fusing, slumping, and related kiln-forming activities.

Moderators: Tony Smith, Brad Walker

Post Reply
Riverviewglass
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 11:57 am
Location: WISCONSIN

Fixing Sagging Elements

Postby Riverviewglass » Sun Apr 27, 2003 3:35 pm

My Paragon kiln elements have been sagging and the pins have been falling out - I finally got some replacement pins and now want to replace them - My question is that with heating my element to about 300 degrees I am going to have to wear gloves to insert them - my gloves are so big on my hands I don't know if I will be able to grab onto the pins and shove them in. Any suggestions? I checked at Ed Hoys this past week and all the gloves I found were large on me.
thanks for any help! Kim

Brad Walker
Site Admin
Posts: 1385
Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2003 9:33 pm
Location: North Carolina, USA
Contact:

Postby Brad Walker » Sun Apr 27, 2003 3:54 pm

I've always repinned my elements without reheating them. I just do so very carefully and slowly. I would think that the only time you'd need to reheat is if the elements are really distorted; I try to catch them before they get that bad.

Jim Wixon
Posts: 35
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 3:50 pm
Location: Seal Beach

Postby Jim Wixon » Sun Apr 27, 2003 4:24 pm

I have never had to heat and re-pin(maybe dumb luck) If you do heat... do not forget to uplug the kiln before work. I re-pin pushing in at an angle so that there more fresh brick to hold the pin and gravity will be countered to some degree...good luck
jim

Marty
Posts: 855
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 3:58 pm
Location: Maine
Contact:

Postby Marty » Sun Apr 27, 2003 9:56 pm

I also didn't heat the kiln to pin saggers. I did put 2 pins in the same place, angling them at 45 degrees opposite each other, hoping for some tension. Seemed to work.

Riverviewglass
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 11:57 am
Location: WISCONSIN

Postby Riverviewglass » Sun Apr 27, 2003 11:05 pm

So glad to read that I DON'T have to heat the kiln -hopefully that will make the job much easier - please cross your fingers for me - I will attempt to fix the sagging elements tomorrow as I have a bowl in the kiln now!
Many thanks for this board's help once again! Kim

Judith Andre
Posts: 28
Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2003 2:38 am
Location: Lincoln, NE

Postby Judith Andre » Sun Apr 27, 2003 11:40 pm

I have not found any gloves to fit me either. Why is it that so many things are only available in men's sizes? Anyone know of a source?
Judith

Ron Bell
Posts: 45
Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2003 12:31 am
Location: Middleburg, Florida

Postby Ron Bell » Sun Apr 27, 2003 11:42 pm

Isn't the heating step required only if you need to stretch the elements for fit. In my first kiln, the elements came loose because (as I was told) the elements were not "burnt in" properly and they shrunk. After stretching them and repinning, I have had no problems....
Ron Bell
Black Creek Glass

Greg Rawls
Posts: 147
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 8:11 pm
Location: Charleston, SC
Contact:

Postby Greg Rawls » Mon Apr 28, 2003 8:02 am

Does anyone know where to find these pins? Is there an internet source where I can order them from? Thanks!
Greg

Mike Byers
Posts: 56
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 6:57 pm
Location: west central Indiana
Contact:

Postby Mike Byers » Mon Apr 28, 2003 8:53 am

When reinserting pins I've found that putting a slight bend in the pin (at about the center of the long part) makes the pin fit tighter. This "spring fit" technique helped keep the pins from falling out in my ten year old Paragon, just like putting a very slight bend in a door hinge pin will help keep a door open in the position you want. But I wonder if you could find a source of the wire that the pins are made from and make U-shaped pins with equal length sides? Maybe pins like this would be better?

Brad Walker
Site Admin
Posts: 1385
Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2003 9:33 pm
Location: North Carolina, USA
Contact:

Postby Brad Walker » Mon Apr 28, 2003 9:36 am

Greg Rawls wrote:Does anyone know where to find these pins? Is there an internet source where I can order them from? Thanks!


Any pottery place will have element pins. Or you can order them from any kiln or element manufacturer.

charlie
Posts: 961
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 3:08 pm

Postby charlie » Mon Apr 28, 2003 11:32 am

Brad Walker wrote:
Greg Rawls wrote:Does anyone know where to find these pins? Is there an internet source where I can order them from? Thanks!


Any pottery place will have element pins. Or you can order them from any kiln or element manufacturer.


you can also get a 10' spool of wire and make your own: http://delphiglass.com/index.cfm?page=i ... o=itemList

Riverviewglass
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 11:57 am
Location: WISCONSIN

Postby Riverviewglass » Mon Apr 28, 2003 12:04 pm

I found my replacement pins on eBay

Marc Demian
Posts: 32
Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2003 3:24 pm

form fitting gloves

Postby Marc Demian » Mon Apr 28, 2003 1:24 pm

Last Xmas they were advertising something called "Ovgloves". I decided to try them out. I find them much more agile than my expensive giant padded gloves from C&R Loo. They may not be quite as heat resistant, but perfect for moving hot shelves or handling hot kiln handles. I seldom use my big bulky gloves anymore.

I bought mine at Walgreens but I'm not sure if anyone still carries them or if they were an Christmas wonder. $20 each I believe.

Carol Craiglow
Posts: 37
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 10:48 pm
Location: Santa Fe NM USA
Contact:

Postby Carol Craiglow » Mon Apr 28, 2003 1:44 pm

Has anybody tried these Coolhands Kevlar gloves from CDV? They are only rated to 800F, but they look very flexible.

http://www.cdvkiln.com/menuacc.htm

Carol
Bob L Workshop - Take Two
June 10-11-12
Santa Fe NM
http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=10420

Jim Wixon
Posts: 35
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 3:50 pm
Location: Seal Beach

Postby Jim Wixon » Mon Apr 28, 2003 11:19 pm

I have some of the kevlar gloves as well as the sleeves from CDV. I bought them 2 or 3 years ago. I use them for glory hole work. The gloves do a good job with the heat from a full size glory hole.They fit well and there is no problem with dexterity. I would highly recommend the sleeves be used with the gloves I don't know how they would be for raking and other kiln work..I use the heavy duty gloves for that.
jim

gerry newcomb

Postby gerry newcomb » Tue Apr 29, 2003 2:11 am

I've found a real easy way to push around/ shink or stretch elements is to use a propane torch to heat a section of the element to move it to where you want to. Needle nose pliers are a help for handleing the elements.
I keep a roll of nichrome wire in the studio and make my own pins, element holders wall supports etc. Good luck


Post Reply

Return to “Techniques and Tools”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 45 guests

Warm Glass

2575 Old Glory Road, Suite 700
Suite 700
Clemmons, NC 27012
Phone: (336) 712 8003
Email: wg@warmglass.com

cron