Metal Hinges & other Parts - Bert??? Brock??

[Gale aka artistefem]

http://www.digitalartpage.com/showgalle ... d=29&pic=1

WOW!!! WORK!! (Brock - these little smiley guys are for you. I know how much you like them - big grin!!)

What is Markian using for hinges and how are they attached? What do you recommend for the protective channel at the bottom of each panel and is it glued on or.......???

tanxx u

[Brock]

So . . . ya did a search on Markian, huh?

Markian uses 2 types of hinges, both available from commercial glass supply houses. One is a 90 degree fixed hinge, to make an M or W screen, and the other is an adjustable hinge to make shallower or more acute bends. They both are attached by a plastic set screw that just compresses on the glass itself. Beware, some of these hinges are just electroplated plastic, and are not sturdy. Go for the real brass ones, they come in many finishes. The bottom channels, which aren't used on every screen, are attached with silicone, I believe. It's just 1/2", or slightly bigger, brass U came.

Thanks for the smileys, love ya.

Brock

[Bert Weiss]

http://www.digitalartpage.com/showgalle ... d=29&pic=1

WOW!!! WORK!! (Brock - these little smiley guys are for you. I know how much you like them - big grin!!)

What is Markian using for hinges and how are they attached? What do you recommend for the protective channel at the bottom of each panel and is it glued on or.......???

tanxx u

Gale

CR Laurence carries dozens of different styles of hinges. There are of course various design issues.

The nylon set screw type of hinges really only work on very flat parallel glass. I have not had much luck getting them to grab on to glass that has been kiln fired. The pieces in the picture are cold worked flat glass.

I often use shower door and other drill through hardware that holds on much more securely. The catch is that once you are dealing with bolt through attachment, the glass needs to be tempered.

I tried to cut that corner for my show booth. I would say that the glass is tempered, when I didn't actually go and do it. I lost a table base setting up for my last show. I tightened the set screw a bit too much and the glass was in 2 pieces instead of one. (The interesting result was that my booth worked much better without being crowded with that table.)

You can get plastic edge protector in a roll that just slips on (and off) or you could use aluminum channel or I have used setscrew attached edge holding standoffs as an interesting base. If it is available, CRL has it for the most part.

Glass's little challenges.

[Gale aka artistefem]

So Bert........if these panels are coldworked, is MK painting the colored areas rather than firing on enamels?

Quirky minds wanna know...........

[Bert Weiss]

So Bert........if these panels are coldworked, is MK painting the colored areas rather than firing on enamels?

Quirky minds wanna know...........

Only seeing the picture it is difficult to tell for sure, but I think he is using cold paint. If it is kiln fired, which I doubt, it is under 1050ºF.

[Brock]

So Bert........if these panels are coldworked, is MK painting the colored areas rather than firing on enamels?

Quirky minds wanna know...........

Well . . . I can tell ya. It's cold paint rubbred into sandblasting. Brock

[Gale aka artistefem]

Ah Ha............this technique I've seen. Any suggestions on what paints and/or paint surface sealants will promote longevity.

[Brock]

Automotive enamels and lacquer. Brock

[charlie holden]

I'm not sure but I've heard automotive paints referred to as polyurethanes. I might be confusing them with sign maker's paints. In any case you want to look for paints and sealants that are non-yellowing and resistant to uv light. Lots of stone and concrete sealants are formulated just so. See the Granite City or GranQuartz websites.