Did anyone ever find out about the product from IDC that was comparable to Bert's Organic Bottle Coating? - (well, not Bert's exactly, but Ferro's)
Also, I found Ferro's # in the archives, but can't find one for IDC. A search on the web found an IDC in NY, but if I remember right, the right one was in Vancouver WA, and was called IDC Coatings. The one in NY was IDC Products, and didn't seem to carry the fire on coating.
Also, has anyone used either of these products after sandblasting? Does it seal the blasted surface well? Or, even better - does anyone have a picture of a float project they've used either product on - either with or without sandblasting first?
Thanks - Jackie
Organic Bottle Coating
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Oh, and one more thing. I emailed Bert about this a week or so ago, but he hadn't done it before:
Has anyone had success sandblasting float and then doing a very low-temp fire polish afterwards, leaving a matte finish? I know it works with BE, but Bert warned me that float is far less forgiving. Anyone ever have this work out well?
Has anyone had success sandblasting float and then doing a very low-temp fire polish afterwards, leaving a matte finish? I know it works with BE, but Bert warned me that float is far less forgiving. Anyone ever have this work out well?
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Jackie
I spoke to a fellow at IDC several weeks ago. He said he would send me samples, but he never did. I seem to recall they are in Washington State.
I spoke to a fellow at IDC several weeks ago. He said he would send me samples, but he never did. I seem to recall they are in Washington State.
Bert
Bert Weiss Art Glass*
http://www.customartglass.com
Furniture Lighting Sculpture Tableware
Architectural Commissions
Bert Weiss Art Glass*
http://www.customartglass.com
Furniture Lighting Sculpture Tableware
Architectural Commissions
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Jackie, I can't answer your question. However I must tell you that my husband had to throw a bucket of water on my face this afternoon after I fell from my desk chair. I spent most of the day muttering away about Jackie and float glass. It's one thing to amaze us with the black and white, but isn't going to float just a bit far fetched for you? Or is this some diabolical attempt to throw us all off guard?
Seriously, I can't wait to see what your brain is coming up with now!
Barbara
Seriously, I can't wait to see what your brain is coming up with now!
Barbara
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Oh Barbara - too funny! You've got me cracking up. No - actually, I hate the stuff! (Absolutely no offence intended to Bert and the others who are so skilled using float - I'm just not very "float-talented" myself.)Barbara Muth wrote:Jackie, I can't answer your question. However I must tell you that my husband had to throw a bucket of water on my face this afternoon after I fell from my desk chair. I spent most of the day muttering away about Jackie and float glass. It's one thing to amaze us with the black and white, but isn't going to float just a bit far fetched for you? Or is this some diabolical attempt to throw us all off guard?
Seriously, I can't wait to see what your brain is coming up with now!
Barbara
It was yet another of those unfortunate situations where I heard myself saying, "Yes, I'll do that for you . . ." when what I really meant was, "I have no idea how to do that, I don't want to learn, and it will be ugly when I finish it anyway!"
So, trust me - you shouldn't spend any time in a corner cutting out paperdolls and muttering to yourself because I'm swearing off float as soon as I'm done with this project . . . unless of course "Organic Bottle Coating" is like magic clear paint that you apply and suddenly there's colors everywhere . . .
Tin-Bloom-Girl
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Kiln "polishing" sandblasted glass
Jackie, I've just begun making some bowls that I've sand-carved prior to slumping. Some of the blanks are carved from a larger flat piece, using the sandblaster to cut through. (If someone has a waterjet apparatus they'd like to donate or sell CHEAP, I'm interested!
) I slump at 1250, and by holding at that temp for 2 hours I get a "clear" matt finish to both the edge of my bowls and the design that is carved. I don't know yet if that would happen if the frosted surface was in contact with the mold, though, as I haven't done that. The carved designs are deep enough that they are not in contact with the mold, and the frost disappears completely, leaving an acid-polished matt look. I've been working with 3/8" and 1/2" float glass for these pieces. If you'd like to see a picture, I can e-mail one to you.

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Re: Kiln "polishing" sandblasted glass
Mark - I'd love a picture! Please . . . jbeckman29@cox.netMark Selleck wrote:Jackie, I've just begun making some bowls that I've sand-carved prior to slumping. Some of the blanks are carved from a larger flat piece, using the sandblaster to cut through. (If someone has a waterjet apparatus they'd like to donate or sell CHEAP, I'm interested!) I slump at 1250, and by holding at that temp for 2 hours I get a "clear" matt finish to both the edge of my bowls and the design that is carved. I don't know yet if that would happen if the frosted surface was in contact with the mold, though, as I haven't done that. The carved designs are deep enough that they are not in contact with the mold, and the frost disappears completely, leaving an acid-polished matt look. I've been working with 3/8" and 1/2" float glass for these pieces. If you'd like to see a picture, I can e-mail one to you.
Thanks!
Jackie