Polishing using Cerim Oxide

Kim Bellis · Post by **Kim Bellis** » Sat Aug 30, 2003 7:04 pm

Afternoon everyone - I am having a hard time finding the answers to my questions - I hope someone here can help or point me in the right direction.

I need to use Cerim Oxide on several peices and I am unclear how to go about it. I have a 4" diameter felt polishing wheel - I believe you would make a past of the Cerim Oxide and apply to the felt wheel - do I apply to the top of the wheel or sides? When I apply the felt wheel to polish the glass should I move in circles as I would to polish a car? Could I ruin a piece (make more scratches) by not polishing correctly?

I understand the Cerim Oxide will help remove "small scratches" what I experienced is very small "stretch marks" which of course was due to using Spectrum for stained glass. ( I know, but it was what the client wanted sooo...) I did use my devit spray - the small "stretch marks" are only on the rim of the plates.

I appreciate the help!
Thanks
Kim

KellyG · Post by **KellyG** » Sat Aug 30, 2003 9:34 pm

Kim, try this link to the archives. If the link doesn't work, try searching "Cerium Oxide" in the archives. Good info was posted there a couple or so months ago.

http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB/viewtopi ... highlight=

...Kelly

Barbara Muth · Post by **Barbara Muth** » Sat Aug 30, 2003 10:04 pm

glassaddict wrote: I understand the Cerim Oxide will help remove "small scratches" what I experienced is very small "stretch marks" which of course was due to using Spectrum for stained glass. ( I know, but it was what the client wanted sooo...) I did use my devit spray - the small "stretch marks" are only on the rim of the plates.

I appreciate the help!
Thanks
Kim

stretch marks happen during your slumping. if you are slumping at appropriate temperatures you should not get devitrification during the slump (though you may have gotten it earlier during a full fuse firing.

But back to the stretch marks. They tend to be more likely to happen when you are slumping too fast. What was your firing schedule, what mold did you use, how big and thick was the glass?

Barbara

Kim Bellis · Post by **Kim Bellis** » Sat Aug 30, 2003 10:20 pm

stretch marks happen during your slumping. if you are slumping at appropriate temperatures you should not get devitrification during the slump (though you may have gotten it earlier during a full fuse firing.

But back to the stretch marks. They tend to be more likely to happen when you are slumping too fast. What was your firing schedule, what mold did you use, how big and thick was the glass?

Barbara[/quote]

Barbara:
The stretch marks happened during the full fuse. I went 200 hr to 1000 then went fast to 1400 (just to get my edges nice and rounded off before slumping). The glass is single thickness and 8" in diameter.
Kim

Kim Bellis · Post by **Kim Bellis** » Sat Aug 30, 2003 10:25 pm

KAG wrote:Kim, try this link to the archives. If the link doesn't work, try searching "Cerium Oxide" in the archives. Good info was posted there a couple or so months ago.

http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB/viewtopi ... highlight=

...Kelly

Kelly:
Thank you- can't figure out how I missed that during my search - the tutorial at HIS glass is great.
thanks
Kim

Kay McConnell · Post by **Kay McConnell** » Mon Sep 01, 2003 8:50 am

Does this mean that Spectrum's System 96 is prone to these "stretch marks"? What about the Bullseye 90? (I'm new to fusing, and my closest source of glass only carries the 96). Kay

Barbara Muth · Post by **Barbara Muth** » Mon Sep 01, 2003 9:35 am

glassaddict wrote:
Barbara:
The stretch marks happened during the full fuse. I went 200 hr to 1000 then went fast to 1400 (just to get my edges nice and rounded off before slumping). The glass is single thickness and 8" in diameter.
Kim

Kim, I guess I didn't understand what you meant by stretch marks. And I am confused by your firing. Are you "full fusing" and slumping in the same firing? Or did you do 2 firings, this full fuse and then a slump? Sorry. I must be thick-headed this morning.

Barbara

Tom White · Post by **Tom White** » Mon Sep 01, 2003 10:59 am

Kim, your first post on this thread mentions you used regular Spectrum instead of System 96 for this project. First, did you grind the edge of your glass? Second, did you apply the anti-devit material to the cut edge of your glass. It sounds to me like you are getting devit on the edges of the plain Sperctrum. The edge of the glass is the same as the face of the glass and needs the same treatment. I have to apply borax solution anti-devit to the edges of my float glass items as well as to the face to avoid devit. There is much about "scum" on ground edges in the archives.

Kay, System 96 is not subject to devit like the regular (stained glass) Spectrum is. Sys 96 should not have the devit problem. Stretch marks do not show up on the cut edge of the glass in my experience. Rather, they show up on the surface of the glass against the mold when the slump is too hot and the glass moves against the mold after it softens enough to deform.

Best wishes,
Tom in Texas

Kim Bellis · Post by **Kim Bellis** » Mon Sep 01, 2003 3:26 pm

Barbara:
Yes, unfortuantly I had to use "regular" Spectrum for this project. I did a full fuse first just to round off my edges nicely (which worked great) that is when I incurred the stretch marks and devit.

Tomfoolery gave me some great information which was to bevel my edges and then slump thus taking out the first firing - this should get rid of my problem. I know my edges will probably not round off the way I like them however, I can live with the edges but not the stretch marks and devit.

I have a test in the kiln now - also, one of the other bad pieces I used etch creme (dip n etch) and am in the process of firing it to see what happens.

Thanks for your help

WarmGlass.com

Polishing using Cerim Oxide

Polishing using Cerim Oxide

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