Screen printing on glass
Moderators: Brad Walker, Tony Smith
-
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:08 pm
- Location: Stamford, Vermont
- Contact:
Screen printing on glass
What is the best screen mesh size for screen printing on glass. Using Reusche stencil Black and pine oil medium.? Other thoughts on the topic?
Joseph.... It's been years since I've printed on glass, so will look up old notes. But the most important factor is that the screen has to be built up from the surface of the glass, so that the screen can snap away immediately... (since it doesn't have texture like paper, it will smear the image) I would tape squares of double strength glass under each of the corners of the screen. (You might even have to build up two layers).
I'll keep watching the post, and if you havent heard what mesh size to use, I'll dig into my ancient notes.... Marty
I'll keep watching the post, and if you havent heard what mesh size to use, I'll dig into my ancient notes.... Marty
-
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 9:23 pm
- Location: Manila
- Contact:
I spoke last week with a Reusche rep on this topic. I'm not sure how important this is to the mesh size, but I did indicate I was working with their lead/cadmium free colors. The rep told me a centerpoint of 200 with a 160 - 300 range mesh size is acceptable. FYI, on that same call he advised me to mix by weight 75% powder/25% squeegee oil medium for the lead-free; 80%/20% respectively for the lead/cadmium bearing paints.
Hope this helps.
-- Cathy
Hope this helps.
-- Cathy
Joseph, there is a mine of info on supplies & techniques for all screenprinters at http://www.screenweb.com
It ain't where you're from, it's where you're at!
-
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:08 pm
- Location: Stamford, Vermont
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 2339
- Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 12:06 am
- Location: Chatham NH
- Contact:
JosephJoseph Tracy wrote:Thanks everyone for the feedback. I 'm having a 200 mesh screen made.
I couldn't get through to Reusche so that helped, along with the ratios. I remember needing a lot of paint but that really helps.
When you are set up to print, you load the screen with ink by making a squeegee pull with the screen in the air, contacting nothing. Then you put the screen down contacting the glass to make your printing pull. The screen should bounce up off the glass when the pull is complete. We line the glass to be printed with glass the same thickness on both sides of the squeegee. The squeegee rides on all three pieces of glass. Do a good job softening the edges on all glass to be in contact with the screen.
This is the technique used by a friend of mine who is a pro screen printer and has lots of experience printing with stencil black. When you go to the big museums in NYC, he has printed the blurbs on the walls. That's his money job.
Bert
Bert Weiss Art Glass*
http://www.customartglass.com
Furniture Lighting Sculpture Tableware
Architectural Commissions
Bert Weiss Art Glass*
http://www.customartglass.com
Furniture Lighting Sculpture Tableware
Architectural Commissions
-
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2003 5:08 pm
- Location: Stamford, Vermont
- Contact:
Thanks Bert,
The idea of loading the screen is elegant. I have screened on enough glass to have the other info, but have always struggled with not getting too much ink and the consequent smearing. I read the other thread too. Good info. Interesting that the topic came up twice independently at the same time. So when you mix waterbase paste , what do you use for medium ( water friendly, acrylic gel?)and /or do you thicken it with the paint powder?
The idea of loading the screen is elegant. I have screened on enough glass to have the other info, but have always struggled with not getting too much ink and the consequent smearing. I read the other thread too. Good info. Interesting that the topic came up twice independently at the same time. So when you mix waterbase paste , what do you use for medium ( water friendly, acrylic gel?)and /or do you thicken it with the paint powder?
-
- Posts: 2339
- Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 12:06 am
- Location: Chatham NH
- Contact:
JoeJoseph Tracy wrote:Thanks Bert,
The idea of loading the screen is elegant. I have screened on enough glass to have the other info, but have always struggled with not getting too much ink and the consequent smearing. I read the other thread too. Good info. Interesting that the topic came up twice independently at the same time. So when you mix waterbase paste , what do you use for medium ( water friendly, acrylic gel?)and /or do you thicken it with the paint powder?
My medium of choice is Ferro #1544. It is a water friendly medium that is their slowest drying medium. I am often painting on large sheets of glass so slow is good. It could take months to dry but I just fire it right away. If I were screening multi layers, I would go with a faster drying medium.
I buy powder and mix it myself. WIth the 1544, it is mixed 50% medium by weight, which is pretty good screen ink. That can be thinned with water or alchohol for spraying or painting.
Basically alcohol speeds drying. Glycerine slows it. Water thins it. More enamel powder thickens it.
Bert
Bert Weiss Art Glass*
http://www.customartglass.com
Furniture Lighting Sculpture Tableware
Architectural Commissions
Bert Weiss Art Glass*
http://www.customartglass.com
Furniture Lighting Sculpture Tableware
Architectural Commissions