I have not used much dichroic in my work and so am ignorant. Please help.
I was doing a simple fuse of two BE pieces teal cathedral and a clear w/ black fractures and streamers. I threw some teal/pink dichroic frit on top. The frit did not full fuse. I did two separate firings - the second with two soaks one at 1100 and the second for longer at 1500 thinking it just hadn't caught up with the BE. But that didn't work. You can feel the frit. There must be some property I don't understand about the firt. HELP?
dichroic problem
Moderators: Brad Walker, Tony Smith
For some reason, probably surface tension vs. volume, the smaller the pieces the longer they take to melt. That could be your problem, and more heat or a longer soak will fix it. But, it may be that you have placed your dichroic frit, dichro side down, and if that's the case, the glass is floating on a dichroic base, and may never fully homogenize. Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
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LisaBartlett
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Paul Tarlow
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Re: dichroic problem
Even when the glass is fully soft, sometimes the dichroic film (which does not melt) prevents the attached glass from flowing out smoothly -- even at high temps with relatively long soaks.LisaBartlett wrote:I have not used much dichroic in my work and so am ignorant. Please help.
I was doing a simple fuse of two BE pieces teal cathedral and a clear w/ black fractures and streamers. I threw some teal/pink dichroic frit on top. The frit did not full fuse. I did two separate firings - the second with two soaks one at 1100 and the second for longer at 1500 thinking it just hadn't caught up with the BE. But that didn't work. You can feel the frit. There must be some property I don't understand about the firt. HELP?
Flip the piece over and fire dichro down (on fiber paper works well). The weight of the piece will smooth the dichro. You can re-smooth the surface on your final firing when you slump.
- Paul