Moist pack
Moderators: Brad Walker, Tony Smith
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- Location: Cornwall,UK
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Moist pack
Hello!
I was wondering if anyone could give me some help.I`ve never used moist pack before and need a little guideance.What is the procedure for using moist pack?Any help would be great.
Thanks for any advice in advance,dave
I was wondering if anyone could give me some help.I`ve never used moist pack before and need a little guideance.What is the procedure for using moist pack?Any help would be great.
Thanks for any advice in advance,dave
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- Posts: 24
- Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2003 12:22 pm
- Location: Missouri
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Hi Dave,
I've used moist fiber a few times and like it. From memory, I've cut it to shape and smashed it into or onto a shape that I've wanted to make a mold of. You have to let it air dry on/in the mold in a warm room at it's own rate, or sometimes the rigidizer evaporates out too fast and areas stay soft and banket-y (bad) even after drying. Allow 5-7 days for 1" thick molds. Protect the moistpack from sticking to your shape by using aluminum foil as a separator. Once it's dry, pre-fire it to instuctions. I then put several coats of kiln wash on it, and sand the kiln wash smooth. You're ready to fire! I have gotten many firings off it, especially ifyou put your mold on it's own shelf and don't handle it much. The more you handle it, the more fragile it gets. Good luck, Susan
I've used moist fiber a few times and like it. From memory, I've cut it to shape and smashed it into or onto a shape that I've wanted to make a mold of. You have to let it air dry on/in the mold in a warm room at it's own rate, or sometimes the rigidizer evaporates out too fast and areas stay soft and banket-y (bad) even after drying. Allow 5-7 days for 1" thick molds. Protect the moistpack from sticking to your shape by using aluminum foil as a separator. Once it's dry, pre-fire it to instuctions. I then put several coats of kiln wash on it, and sand the kiln wash smooth. You're ready to fire! I have gotten many firings off it, especially ifyou put your mold on it's own shelf and don't handle it much. The more you handle it, the more fragile it gets. Good luck, Susan
Patent pending Sewn Glass.
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Hi Dave -
Like was mentioned, press out excess moisture between newspaper. Exchange wet newspaper for dry and repeat several times. This will allow you to speed dry it with good results. (Wear latex gloves since it is incredibly drying.)
You can form it around something or build a shape without any form. If you cut it and fold pieces in weird positions, you can you can stick high temp wire through and twist to hold in place.
Some people dry it in the kiln at low temps but since there are conflicting reports about whether or not it's a fire hazard, I dry mine on top of my kiln on a metal pan or on top of fire bricks.
After it's dry, you can sand it smooth with fine sandpaper and paint with kiln wash.
With care MoistPack molds will last a very long time.
Beth
Like was mentioned, press out excess moisture between newspaper. Exchange wet newspaper for dry and repeat several times. This will allow you to speed dry it with good results. (Wear latex gloves since it is incredibly drying.)
You can form it around something or build a shape without any form. If you cut it and fold pieces in weird positions, you can you can stick high temp wire through and twist to hold in place.
Some people dry it in the kiln at low temps but since there are conflicting reports about whether or not it's a fire hazard, I dry mine on top of my kiln on a metal pan or on top of fire bricks.
After it's dry, you can sand it smooth with fine sandpaper and paint with kiln wash.
With care MoistPack molds will last a very long time.
Beth
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I sand before applying kilnwash. But I wear an appropriately rated respirator (not paper mask that gives a false sense of security). If I sanded afterwards, then I have kilnwash particles to inhale and would still wear a respirator. Same when cutting fiber paper, carving Kaiser Lee board or cleaning up ThinFire (it's covered with damp paper towels first but I may switch to a sprayer.)
I'm satisfied that the 6200 half face mask with P100 filters (pictured in Brad's book) protects me sufficiently against airborne particles like ceramic fiber and silica. To paraphrase Graham Stone, if it's good for silica dust, it's good for fiber.
For anyone interested, there's loads on this in the old archives - search on P100.
Beth
I'm satisfied that the 6200 half face mask with P100 filters (pictured in Brad's book) protects me sufficiently against airborne particles like ceramic fiber and silica. To paraphrase Graham Stone, if it's good for silica dust, it's good for fiber.
For anyone interested, there's loads on this in the old archives - search on P100.
Beth
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