Fire polish after slump?
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Fire polish after slump?
I just finished slumping my second bowl and plate. And I really like the way they look. Except, there are still some grinding marks left from cleaning a few spots before firing.
Can I fire polish the pieces to remove the marks?
Would it be better to hand-polish with dremel?
If I do fire-polish, should I leave the pieces in the molds, or just on the washed shelf.
Thanks,
Cheryl
Can I fire polish the pieces to remove the marks?
Would it be better to hand-polish with dremel?
If I do fire-polish, should I leave the pieces in the molds, or just on the washed shelf.
Thanks,
Cheryl
do you mean marks on the edge or the surface?
you have to heat in decreasing temps. fuse, firepolish, slump. if you do a firepolish, which in my kiln is 1325-1350, on a shelf, you'll lose the slump because it'll be flattened. if you do it in the mold, you chance having the glass flow to the bottom of the mold.
the bottom line is that you most likely have to hand work it now.
you have to heat in decreasing temps. fuse, firepolish, slump. if you do a firepolish, which in my kiln is 1325-1350, on a shelf, you'll lose the slump because it'll be flattened. if you do it in the mold, you chance having the glass flow to the bottom of the mold.
the bottom line is that you most likely have to hand work it now.
What do you use to polish
I have never tried to polish glass before.
I'm using a dremel with a buffing wheel and polishing compound. Is there a better option?
Thanks.
c
I'm using a dremel with a buffing wheel and polishing compound. Is there a better option?
Thanks.
c
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Thanks for the fast answer. But I am a real newbie at this. Can you be a little more specific for me? Are we talking about a rubber holder that fits a special type of sand paper? Or is this glass-specific.
If I go to my Spectrum dealer will he know what it is? Or can I go to Home Depot for it.
Thanks again.
c
If I go to my Spectrum dealer will he know what it is? Or can I go to Home Depot for it.
Thanks again.
c
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Re: Fire polish after slump?
I've had luck heating the piece up to just-below-slump -- then rushing to fire polish temps and not staying there long.
The idea is that if you are above the annealing range you are safe having unequal temps in the glass. If you kiln heats fast enough you can get the surface of the glass to fire polish temps before a critical amount of the glass gets to slump. You'll probably want to crash cool from fire polish temp down.
Its tricky and I wouldn't do it on a piece you're not willing to lose. My experience is that the thicker the piece the more likely success.
- Paul
The idea is that if you are above the annealing range you are safe having unequal temps in the glass. If you kiln heats fast enough you can get the surface of the glass to fire polish temps before a critical amount of the glass gets to slump. You'll probably want to crash cool from fire polish temp down.
Its tricky and I wouldn't do it on a piece you're not willing to lose. My experience is that the thicker the piece the more likely success.
- Paul
cherylka wrote:I just finished slumping my second bowl and plate. And I really like the way they look. Except, there are still some grinding marks left from cleaning a few spots before firing.
Can I fire polish the pieces to remove the marks?
Would it be better to hand-polish with dremel?
If I do fire-polish, should I leave the pieces in the molds, or just on the washed shelf.
Thanks,
Cheryl
Sorry, you're on your own, I don't use them. Tried them, too much work.cherylka wrote:Thanks Brock.
Do you have a recommendation for mesh versus resin, or any of the grits that are better for glass? Do they last a long time, or should I be ordering by the dozen?
c
Others can tell you more, but you'll need a series of pads, from coarse to fine. Try something like, 80, 220, 400, 800, 3500. Brock
Re: Fire polish after slump?
I agree, Paul. Isn't that Brian's ZapnBlastem technology? It also helps if you have a very shallow mold. I usually use the diamond pads first to about a 400 grit.Paul Tarlow wrote:I've had luck heating the piece up to just-below-slump -- then rushing to fire polish temps and not staying there long.
The idea is that if you are above the annealing range you are safe having unequal temps in the glass. If you kiln heats fast enough you can get the surface of the glass to fire polish temps before a critical amount of the glass gets to slump. You'll probably want to crash cool from fire polish temp down.
Its tricky and I wouldn't do it on a piece you're not willing to lose. My experience is that the thicker the piece the more likely success.
- Paul