Signature

[fun5oh]

What sort of marker can be used to sign my work before I fuse, the signature would be put on before the 2nd firing of a clear cap.

Thanks,
Robin

[Bebe]

A gold pen works best between firings, although it will come out a little grainy. Or use Paradise paints. Personally, I like to use a dremel with a diamond bit and engrave my name after everything is done - it's just more subtle. Some people put a little symbol for their name, like a heart, cut from 1/4 fiber paper and put it under the piece on the last firing. (Can't put it between layers 'cause you'd never get it out!) Just some thoughts - hope it helps.

PS I suggest NOT putting a date on anything you plan on selling!

[Marty]

Re dating your work- I thought it was important until a gallery told me otherwise. It makes it hard to sell those good but slow-moving items a few years after you make/sign them, and your work has changed drastically. Marty

[Mike Byers]

The small, conical bit that dentists used to use--my dentist told me they aren't used much these days so you can often get them from a dentist for free--work very well in a Dremel or Fordham tool. The small point makes them very controlable when signing glass.

[fun5oh]

Well, I tried a test with Pilot gold metallic paint marker on black with a clear cap, it practically vanished. What brand marker can withstand fusing temps?

Thanks,
Robin

[Alecia Helton]

Try the FERRO Ceramic GoldRush Pen. I haven't bought tem directly, only purchased them from a former instructor so I can't tell you where to get them. They work wll until the felt tip wears out.

Alecia

[fun5oh]

Thanks for the tip, I'll try to find one

Robin

[Tom White]

Look in your local hobby ceramic or pottery suppliers.

Best wishes,
Tom in Texas

[stargazer]

We want to sign/engrave our name on our clear glass work. We want it to be very small but legible. Does anyone know of a great tool for performing this? Thank you. Sheryl

[Paul Tarlow]

We want to sign/engrave our name on our clear glass work. We want it to be very small but legible. Does anyone know of a great tool for performing this? Thank you. Sheryl

A Dremel or Foredom tool with a diamond bit will work. Most stained glass stores also sell inexpensive engraving tools.

The faster the bit spins the easier it will be to control -- which is why something like "Turbo Carver" (http://www.turbocarver.com) -- which spins at 450,000 times each minute -- is ideal. It is also pricey and probably not worth it if all you are using it for is to sign work.

- Paul

[Tony Serviente]

I use a dremel with a sixteenth bit for signing. The bits are cheap and they last a long time.

[Lynn g]

I got a ferro pen from Fusion Headquarters (http://www.fusionheadquarters.com). They recommend firing on top or between layers to 1050-1150 degrees F.

Lynn g

[Lionel]

Dating a piece is not a good idea - Date Codes Are. It allow you to not only authenticate a piece as your but also gives a date of creation.

day 1=a 2=b 3=c
month 1=12 2=11 3=10
year w=2001 y=2002 z=2010

V12S = 1/12/2004

You have to be consistant and it can be any combination you want.

[Lauri Levanto]

In graphic art the prints are signed and numbered.
In sculpture, too it is customary to number
the pieced like 8/12.
I have used this for small edition slumps.

When you say that date is detrimental,
how is it with edition number?

-lauri