wok trouble
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wok trouble
Finally tried my new wok. Sandblasted, sprayed with wash. 19" piece of alternating aventurine green, and clear irid. Got a nice even slump, but where the clear contacted the wok, I had rust come through big time. Left big rust marks on the wok, and minor rust on the glass. I assume I need more wash. Any thoughts? Also, what would remove the rust from the glass and not damage the irid?
Thanks,
Dick
Thanks,
Dick
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Not sure why you would have rust at all if you sprayed on the wash with the wok pre-heated. I spray wash on mild steel molds regularly (outdoors), after sandblasting, and seldom see any rusting. I pre-heat steel forms to around 250 f before coating, and the water in the mix almost flashes dry. This evaporation quickly cools the steel, of course, so I work pretty fast, and when the stuff stops flashing dry I stop spraying, if I haven't already. If I end up with an area that looks damp I use the air gun to dry it until the color looks thoroughly dry. Then I lightly rub the palm of my hand over the wash to smooth the surface, clean it with the air gun (outdoors).... and Voila! Works pretty well for me, anyway.
My best guess is that the wash wasn't really truly dried out, and when you placed the glass in the wok, it trapped humidity and then caused the rusting.
Regards, Jacques
My best guess is that the wash wasn't really truly dried out, and when you placed the glass in the wok, it trapped humidity and then caused the rusting.
Regards, Jacques
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wok
I did preheat. I used a torch, heated, sprayed and dried. It was totally dry when it went in the kiln.
Dick
Dick
woks
Try heating it in your kiln (or oven) to 350F- more even heat.
Go to stainless woks (hard to find in larger sizes).
Go to stainless woks (hard to find in larger sizes).
Are you sure it wasn't spalling or scale (whichever)? I have a wok that I don't use anymore because it would scale off onto the glass when ever I used it regardless of the separator I used...I tried both boron nitride and kiln wash, applied with an airbrush onto hot steel, sizzle sizzle and dried on contact. I think your problem might have to do with the grade of steel. At least I think that was the problem with mine.
Never found a stainless wok of the size I needed so had a potter throw me a mold to bend into that is like a ball mold or wok but nice and big. I got tired of experimenting and marring the surface of my glass.
Just a thought,
Never found a stainless wok of the size I needed so had a potter throw me a mold to bend into that is like a ball mold or wok but nice and big. I got tired of experimenting and marring the surface of my glass.

Just a thought,
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SS Pudding bowls from the catering industryCynthia Oliver wrote: Never found a stainless wok of the size I needed so had a potter throw me a mold to bend into that is like a ball mold or wok but nice and big. I got tired of experimenting and marring the surface of my glass.![]()
Just a thought,
My biggest is about 22"
Formaly Slump Boy

Cool. I use old woks from the thrift store...$1 apiece..for medium sizes. Orange County Metalworks (Dave, pretty close!) will custom make any size you want up to 20 ft. dia., but they get spendy. They added a $100 setup fee, which made a 24" x 3" deep stainless steel platter mold 1/8" thick run around $200 last go round, shipped .... but it's a lifetime mold and worth it! Still.... I intend to check out the pudding bowls.
regards, Jacques
regards, Jacques
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They might have a different name over the pondJacques Bordeleau wrote:Cool. I use old woks from the thrift store...$1 apiece..for medium sizes. Orange County Metalworks (Dave, pretty close!) will custom make any size you want up to 20 ft. dia., but they get spendy. They added a $100 setup fee, which made a 24" x 3" deep stainless steel platter mold 1/8" thick run around $200 last go round, shipped .... but it's a lifetime mold and worth it! Still.... I intend to check out the pudding bowls.
regards, Jacques
But they R used 2 mix stuff like sausage meat n I guess cake stuff etc
MayB even current buns


rust and woks
I've wondered if the so called rust from woks on clear glass is iron oxide penetrating the glass in vapor form. Maybe that's the same as rust, and I'm new to steel molds- but I run the first slump in a steel mold with a piece of float. The float absorbs the inital "rust". Then it doesn't seem to be a problem in the next firing. Someone wiser correct me if this seems nonsensical. Leslie 

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