Looking for small molds for firing
Moderators: Brad Walker, Tony Smith
Looking for small molds for firing
Hi, I have a 7 inch shelf, small kiln. Where can I find (other than Ebay) small molds of rectangles, hearts, etc. for me to put scrap in and fire in the kiln? Thanks.
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I have made small molds (for lamp repairs) out of clay. Roll it flat (I use spacers on the counter to get a uniform thickness), shape it over a shape you like that is covered with saran wrap and cover lightly so it can dry slowly. You can sand it at this point to smooth it out if necessary. Drill your holes and then bisque fire (or take it to a pottery shop and have them bisque fire a bunch for you at one time). They don't last as long as commercially made molds but work just fine.
Katy
Katy
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Katy -- any reason you stop at bisque firing the molds? Would they not last longer if you high-fired them?Katy Pattison wrote:I have made small molds (for lamp repairs) out of clay. Roll it flat (I use spacers on the counter to get a uniform thickness), shape it over a shape you like that is covered with saran wrap and cover lightly so it can dry slowly. You can sand it at this point to smooth it out if necessary. Drill your holes and then bisque fire (or take it to a pottery shop and have them bisque fire a bunch for you at one time). They don't last as long as commercially made molds but work just fine.
Katy
I have been thinking of creating my own molds. I was planning on using a friends pottery kiln and firing them twice (bisque and high).
Doug Bailey
Small Molds
Bisque firing is a generic term used to designate the process of firing clay to a temperature higher than you ever plan to go again. In pottery we bisque to about 2000 for planned glases that mature at 1875.
For a slumping mold where you probably will never go much over 1500 degrees, bisque firing could be anything over 1600. The higher the better. Higher temps will make a longer lasting mold; I've got some I've been using for at least 10 years. Make sure to use a heavy grog clay like raku clay; it doesn't crack up as much during drying and seems to have an indefinate life span.
Jerry
For a slumping mold where you probably will never go much over 1500 degrees, bisque firing could be anything over 1600. The higher the better. Higher temps will make a longer lasting mold; I've got some I've been using for at least 10 years. Make sure to use a heavy grog clay like raku clay; it doesn't crack up as much during drying and seems to have an indefinate life span.
Jerry
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Re: Small Molds
OK, I guess I didn't understand that. I had thought that the first firing (prior to applying glaze) was to a lower temperature than the glaze firing.Jerry wrote:Bisque firing is a generic term used to designate the process of firing clay to a temperature higher than you ever plan to go again. In pottery we bisque to about 2000 for planned glases that mature at 1875.
For a slumping mold where you probably will never go much over 1500 degrees, bisque firing could be anything over 1600. The higher the better. Higher temps will make a longer lasting mold; I've got some I've been using for at least 10 years. Make sure to use a heavy grog clay like raku clay; it doesn't crack up as much during drying and seems to have an indefinate life span.
Jerry
Doug Bailey
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Re: Small Molds
it can go either way, stoneware and porcelain clays are usually bisqued lower than the glaze/maturing fire. rosannaFusionistic wrote:OK, I guess I didn't understand that. I had thought that the first firing (prior to applying glaze) was to a lower temperature than the glaze firing.Jerry wrote:Bisque firing is a generic term used to designate the process of firing clay to a temperature higher than you ever plan to go again. In pottery we bisque to about 2000 for planned glases that mature at 1875.
For a slumping mold where you probably will never go much over 1500 degrees, bisque firing could be anything over 1600. The higher the better. Higher temps will make a longer lasting mold; I've got some I've been using for at least 10 years. Make sure to use a heavy grog clay like raku clay; it doesn't crack up as much during drying and seems to have an indefinate life span.
Jerry
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We have a local ceramics shop that sells bisque ware that I guess people buy and paint or something, but they have TONS of small shapes that can be used as molds (hearts, ruffles, bowls, ovals, christmas ornaments, etc). I bet you can find places on the web. I buy some component stuff from Aftosa - they have a bisqu ware section too. Also haunt thrift shops (or mega stores if you are into that type of thing) for baking type/ decor metal things. Heat, kiln wash and go. Just don't use aluminum. (Am I right? No aluminum? You can tell if a magnet won't stick??)
Linda
Linda
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Some stainless steel is magnetic and some is non-magnetic. The magnetic variants have chromium and sometimes carbon, the non-magnetic have more chromium and add nickel. It's the nickel that turns the material from magnetic to non-magnetic.PDXBarbara (Bader) wrote:Magnets don't stick to stainless either.
BB
Many good stainless steel molds are 18/8, which means they contain 18% chromium and 8% nickel. In addition to making them non-magnetic, this alloy makes them more corrosion resistant and more ductile (easily formable into shapes).
Small Molds
You might want to try this link they have several small molds and there prices are not toohigh.
http://www.uniqueglasscolors.com/glassaggers.html
Tom
http://www.uniqueglasscolors.com/glassaggers.html
Tom