Cutting double thickness Spectrum 96

Eleanor Brownridge · Post by **Eleanor Brownridge** » Thu Apr 10, 2003 2:33 pm

I have been fusing simple kitchen still life scenes (fruit, wine bottle etc.) on Spectrum 96 -- a 10" x 12" oval to use in stained glass. Two out of 3 times stress cracks developed originating from seams between the thick and thinner glass. I've tested all the coloured glass (Spectrum) and it doesn't seem to be COE incompatability. So I deduced it was stress because of the different thickness of glass. I used very conservative annealing schedules.
In desperation I bought double thickness Spectrum 96 ... but now I can't cut it with my standard cutting tool.
Any suggestions?

Desparate Eleanor

Terry Craig · Post by **Terry Craig** » Thu Apr 10, 2003 3:03 pm

i can't see why your cutter can't do it. do you use those presure pliers? if you do and yours are to small then get some bigger ones the guys at F.I.G. should be able to get you what you need.
terry

Eleanor Brownridge · Post by **Eleanor Brownridge** » Thu Apr 10, 2003 4:37 pm

Thanks for this thought Craig. I will see if larger pliers work. Have you successfully cut double thickness glass?

I see you are also in Mississauga. Are you doing kiln work here?

Eleanor

charlie · Post by **charlie** » Thu Apr 10, 2003 4:43 pm

do a search in the old archives as there's been lots on this in the past.

cutting thick glass can be done with an ordinary cutter, however it's easier with a different cutting wheel. the thicker the glass the wider the wheel angle.

Fusionistic · Post by **Fusionistic** » Thu Apr 10, 2003 5:49 pm

charlie wrote:do a search in the old archives as there's been lots on this in the past.

cutting thick glass can be done with an ordinary cutter, however it's easier with a different cutting wheel. the thicker the glass the wider the wheel angle.

That's a good tip. I've been working with the thicker glass as well, and it is a bit of a bear to cut. The running pliers I use have a screw adjustment that determines how tight they can close -- I need to adjust this to a thicker setting to get a better break (and then I need to remember to reset it or I can't figure out why the heck I can't break normal glass

)

But, the best I can manage still leaves a few places where the break runs wild, and these need to be cleaned up on the grinder.

Judy Schnabel · Post by **Judy Schnabel** » Thu Apr 10, 2003 6:41 pm

Eleanor,

I have never cut a circle from the System 96 DT, but I do cut straight lines with no problem.

Several months ago, Bert suggested placing a dowel pin under your score line then applying pressure on both sides of the glass. This is the method I've used with success.

Judy

Tony Smith · Post by **Tony Smith** » Thu Apr 10, 2003 7:44 pm

I've been cutting circles from System 96, double thickness clear with a regular Silberschnitt circle cutter without a problem. For straight cuts, I use a regular Silberschnitt glass cutter. I do use a Toyo thick glass breaking tool on the straight cuts to run the score. On the circles, I follow Patty Gray's circle cutting technique (http://www.pattygray.com) which allows me to cut the circles without wasting any glass. The scores run easily in the 1/4" thick glass using her technique.

Tony

Eleanor Brownridge · Post by **Eleanor Brownridge** » Thu Apr 10, 2003 9:24 pm

Thanks for all the suggestions. I read them all and searched the archives -- then went out to my studio and used my hammer a little more aggressively on the back side. Behold the score ran and I've even managed to cut a circle.

I guess I was just scared after feeling like a pro cutting regular glass.

Eleanor

Terry Craig · Post by **Terry Craig** » Fri Apr 11, 2003 8:57 am

yes i do do a bit of kiln work but mainly lost wax casting and blowing at the Living Arts Centre where i am the studio tech.
terry