Vitrigraph modification

[jim burchett]

I have a Skutt HotStart kiln that it seems I should be able to use as a Vitrigraph kiln. I' dont see why I cannot elevate this kiln and use a Hole-saw to drill a 2-3" hole in the bottom...viola! Am I missing something? Could I do this and then use an old piece of mullite to cover it when i want to use it to fuse/slump? Anyone have experience with this?

[Brad Walker]

No reason you can't do it that I can think of. Stuff the hole with a scrap of fiber blanket when/if you want to use it as a regular kiln.

Two to three inches is probably a larger hole than you need.

[Lynn g]

Bullseye says their vitrigraph base board has a 2.5" hole.;

[Tony Smith]

You don't need a hole that large. A 3/4" to 1" hole is large enough.

Tony

[KarunaS]

The flower pots which hold my glass usually have a 3/4"-1" hole in the bottom. I think having the same size hole in the kiln bottom would make things unnecessarily tight.

[Faye Malench]

If the hole in the kiln bottom or board is too narrow, the glass will exit the pot and stick to the side of the hole, capturing debris as it goes.
If it's too big, the glass at the exit hole of the pot stays too cool - then I use a MAPP torch to get it flowing again. You can also use a layer of thick fiberpaper between the bottom of the pot and the hole if you feel the bigger hole is colling the base of the pot too much. Better too big than too small.
Jim, I bought an old kiln about this same size to use for vitrigraphs. I found it did not heat up enough for flow. I have had a HotStart for a decade but never pushed the temperature that high. Maybe test the top temp range before you drill?

[Haydo]

i've been having trouble for some time with a one in ten success rate on my computer when posting to the forum so I'm taking advantage of a pay as you go puter at a three thousand room mine worker village to see how I fair. Faye has very good advice regarding the entrapment of debris which i've learnt the hard way especially if it is unattended and it manages to bunch up at the aperature.

i'm looking forward to constructing purpose built tall narrow kilns at some stage so that I can try to attempt to better control the pattern within the cane which also means making up different ways to hold the glass for melting. Slower version of what glass blowers do when they strech their bundled glass I imagine.
peace, haydo

[jim burchett]

If the hole in the kiln bottom or board is too narrow, the glass will exit the pot and stick to the side of the hole, capturing debris as it goes.
If it's too big, the glass at the exit hole of the pot stays too cool - then I use a MAPP torch to get it flowing again. You can also use a layer of thick fiberpaper between the bottom of the pot and the hole if you feel the bigger hole is colling the base of the pot too much. Better too big than too small.
Jim, I bought an old kiln about this same size to use for vitrigraphs. I found it did not heat up enough for flow. I have had a HotStart for a decade but never pushed the temperature that high. Maybe test the top temp range before you drill?

Faye, I have used this Kiln for Combing without too much trouble..1650+ so hopefully it will be fine for this purpose..looking now a 11/2" hole. will post when I get around to doing the modification.

[Cheryl]

Jim, I'd use some fiberpaper in the bottom. every now & again, a pot splits and if you don't catch that in time, there's a lot of loose flowing glass that gets everywhere.

[Faye Malench]

Cheryl makes a good point about being careful around quartz inversion temperatures to protect your pot. I've never split one but have made a mess of the interior of the kiln by trying to reload a hot pot. If you miss, the molten glass eats the brick. The fiber paper is valuable to avoid that.