Running pliers for thick glass

[Franzeska]

I would like to try cutting some thicker kiln-formed glass. Do I need a special cutter? I noticed that the running pliers for thick glass are quite pricey. Can anyone recommend a decent one?

Thanks.

[Bert Weiss]

10mm float is my every day glass. These are the tools I use:
http://www.fusionheadquarters.com/product_p/powbre.htm
http://www.fusionheadquarters.com/product_p/tc21svr.htm
http://www.fusionheadquarters.com/product_p/toycir.htm



When I teach, I like to let students cut glass with my tools in their hands. Their success rate is much better than I ever would have imagined.

[Lauri Levanto]

The picture brings in mind a question that has bogged me for a while.
Why the handles of asymmetric pliers (running and gozing) are made similar.
A different feel would lead to use them the right side up.

[Bert Weiss]

The picture brings in mind a question that has bogged me for a while.
Why the handles of asymmetric pliers (running and gozing) are made similar.
A different feel would lead to use them the right side up.

Yes, you can set then upside down. Once you understand what you are doing and why, upside down is not really going to happen. These pliers have a mechanical advantage built in. I can run a score 130" long with them, as long as the bench is really flat.

[Franzeska]

Thank you, Bert, for the recommendation.

[jenn houser]

Have the same set up, they work very well.

[Bert Weiss]

Have the same set up, they work very well.

I've been cutting glass for 39 years. The glass cutter pictured is far and away my favorite glass cutter that I have ever used. That little tab sits in the palm of your hand and allows you to use your whole arm, not just your fingers and hand. I had switched to a pistol grip at one point, but this is far easier for me to control. I started out cutting 3mm colored glass to pattern. Today, I can do the same thing, only using this cutter on 10mm float glass. The 134º cutting tap wheel on this cutter is good for a wide range of glass thicknesses from 3mm to 12mm or thicker.

[Franzeska]

(I hope) one last question on this topic of the power breaker... How close to the edge of the glass can you use this tool? One thing I want to achieve is a nice straight (perpendicular) edge instead of the rounded edge.

[Bert Weiss]

(I hope) one last question on this topic of the power breaker... How close to the edge of the glass can you use this tool? One thing I want to achieve is a nice straight (perpendicular) edge instead of the rounded edge.

You place the tool near the edge. I have studied the task of cutting with a square edge and no flare. There are several tricks. First, the Toyo tap wheel cutting wheel will yield the least flare. I always paint the glass with kerosene before I cut, this really helps. The breaker point needs to be placed exactly beneath the score. When you miss the center it creates flare. The cutting wheel must be perpendicular to the glass. And your glass must be supported properly on the bench with a convex surface. I often place the edge of the glass I am cutting off of the bench and then hold it in my gloved hand.

My expertise is in cutting float glass. There are internal stresses when fusing dis-similar glasses, that will be in play. Compatible is not a synonym for stress free.

When I teach, I cover how to cut a circle or amoeba shape in 10mm glass with square edges. That is a different set of procedures.

[Franzeska]

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.

[bob proulx]

I ordered mine on Friday from fusion headquarters, cant wait to play around with it. Bert, do you have recommendations on where to by 3/8 float in the Boston area.
Bob

[Bert Weiss]

I ordered mine on Friday from fusion headquarters, cant wait to play around with it. Bert, do you have recommendations on where to by 3/8 float in the Boston area.
Bob

Contract Glass Services in Wilmington MA. is a company I work with. I don't know if they will deal with consumers, but they do work with businesses. Another wholesale outlet is Karas and Karas in South Boston. Both of these companies sell to neighborhood glass shops.

[bob proulx]

Thanks Bert.
Bob

[cbrandt]

I have the Toyo Power Breaker running pliers and think they are wonderful. But I find them very difficult to use on a circle because of the large span even after adjusting them to the closest position. I used a different circle cutter but I could not get any decent run on even 1/4" glass. Maybe I should have left larger pieces around the circle but that is not the way I usually cut circles.

Any other suggestions?

[Bert Weiss]

I have the Toyo Power Breaker running pliers and think they are wonderful. But I find them very difficult to use on a circle because of the large span even after adjusting them to the closest position. I used a different circle cutter but I could not get any decent run on even 1/4" glass. Maybe I should have left larger pieces around the circle but that is not the way I usually cut circles.

Any other suggestions?

There are various strategies for 6mm glass. I often run it with just my thumb. When I work with float, I'd prefer 2" all around. If I have to work with a 1" extra, I'll probably work with my plate pliers on the thin places, and my thumbs in the fat spots. I've never even considered using my breakers on a circle. You can't get them in the right place. I do use them to break out the excess glass after the circle is run.

I have often written about my handmade tapping tool. I start with a dollar store flat screw driver. I heat it red hot with a propane torch. Then I grind the flat to an arc. Now I have a tapping tool. You flip the glass after the score, and place the tool directly above the score where there is the most excess glass. Then strike the tool with a small hammer. You want to start the crack. Then you move the start along, hitting only once in each spot. You place the tool around the end of the start and hit again. When you have the start 360º around. Then you get out the propane torch and heat the start. I move slowly and steadily around the start. You will hear snap crackle and pop as the start finishes to the score side. The heat will make the start finish, in the shortest possible direction. This will leave you with a square shaped edge. Then I break out with a score that begins well outside the break in the glass. My score is perpendicular to the circle. My every day glass is 10mm and this is how I cut a circle. When I teach, this is always a fundamental part of the technique lesson. And BTW, you must paint the glass with kerosene before you score (or have an oil cutter that actually works). Naysayers are welcome to ignore this step at your own peril. I will never ignore it in my shop, when cutting float. BE is different, but I will still do it, unless I am copper foiling glass directly after cutting.

[JestersBaubles]

I have the Toyo Power Breaker running pliers and think they are wonderful. But I find them very difficult to use on a circle because of the large span even after adjusting them to the closest position. I used a different circle cutter but I could not get any decent run on even 1/4" glass. Maybe I should have left larger pieces around the circle but that is not the way I usually cut circles.

Any other suggestions?

I hope this isn't too elementary (I never know folks' experience level):

http://system96.com/Pages/CircleDemo/Circle1.html

Sometimes I run circles like in the demo. But most times, after scoring the circle I cut away excess glass within 1/2" or less on all sides of the scored circle, cut triangles off each corner (so I now have no edge that is too large to use my pliers on the score), then use my running pliers to run the score all the way around the circle. I firmly apply pressure on the score, it will run some, then I'll move the pliers to just before where it left off running, run some more, and work my way around the circle. Once run, I cut relief scores like in the demo and the glass falls away (I use relatively inexpensive Ringstar running pliers http://www.delphiglass.com/glass-cutter ... ing-pliers).

I took a class with Patty a few weeks ago, and her assistant almost had a fit when she saw me breaking out circles like that, but I am successful nearly 100% of the time with this "technique".

Dana W.

[Bert Weiss]

I have the Toyo Power Breaker running pliers and think they are wonderful. But I find them very difficult to use on a circle because of the large span even after adjusting them to the closest position. I used a different circle cutter but I could not get any decent run on even 1/4" glass. Maybe I should have left larger pieces around the circle but that is not the way I usually cut circles.

Any other suggestions?

I hope this isn't too elementary (I never know folks' experience level):

http://system96.com/Pages/CircleDemo/Circle1.html

Sometimes I run circles like in the demo. But most times, after scoring the circle I cut away excess glass within 1/2" or less on all sides of the scored circle, cut triangles off each corner (so I now have no edge that is too large to use my pliers on the score), then use my running pliers to run the score all the way around the circle. I firmly apply pressure on the score, it will run some, then I'll move the pliers to just before where it left off running, run some more, and work my way around the circle. Once run, I cut relief scores like in the demo and the glass falls away (I use relatively inexpensive Ringstar running pliers http://www.delphiglass.com/glass-cutter ... ing-pliers).

I took a class with Patty a few weeks ago, and her assistant almost had a fit when she saw me breaking out circles like that, but I am successful nearly 100% of the time with this "technique".

Dana W.

Dana, that strategy is good with 3mm glass. It is more difficult for 6mm, and extremely difficult with 10mm.

[Don Burt]

clip There are various strategies for 6mm glass. clip

Bert if you were cutting 3" circles from 6mm float, would you use the same screwdriver tapping technique?

[Bert Weiss]

clip There are various strategies for 6mm glass. clip

Bert if you were cutting 3" circles from 6mm float, would you use the same screwdriver tapping technique?

yes. The fellow who showed me the screwdriver tool was using it to cut sharp curves in thin hand blown glasses. I use it for breaking thick glasses. It is a very versatile tool.

I don't recall doing this particular task. It may well work better to cut 5" circles and then plier them. I don't envision being able to thumb a small diameter circle. For small circles in thick glasses, there is always the waterjet, which can make perfect shapes with square edges.