Strip to chop
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Strip to chop
I have a full large kiln shelf filled with 1/4 inch translucent strips set on their side all touching. This will be 20x20 after firing. I'm making this to use as design elements and will be cutting it after firing .
Damming. Since they are all 20 inch strips do I need continuous damming?
My major question is, is it better to tack fuse this and anneal? Rather than a full fuse ( which I will do after cutting and assembling ). Is there an advantage to doing one over another ? Tack or FF?
I can't thank you enough!!!
Full full moon tonight!!!!
Sheree
Damming. Since they are all 20 inch strips do I need continuous damming?
My major question is, is it better to tack fuse this and anneal? Rather than a full fuse ( which I will do after cutting and assembling ). Is there an advantage to doing one over another ? Tack or FF?
I can't thank you enough!!!
Full full moon tonight!!!!
Sheree
Re: Strip to chop
Although the glass "wants" to be 1/4" thick, I'd still put dams around it but that's just my studio practice. You'd probably get away without them, but make sure the shelf is absolutely level in the kiln.
The 20" part doesn't have anything to do with it.
Sawing up a 20x20 of tack fused strips will give you agita as the vibration from the saw blade cracks the whole thing apart. Go for the full fuse- it won't take that much more time than the tack. Don't skimp on the anneal either.
Last night's moon was amazing, appearing 14% larger than usual (we're told). Hope for clear skies tonight.
The 20" part doesn't have anything to do with it.
Sawing up a 20x20 of tack fused strips will give you agita as the vibration from the saw blade cracks the whole thing apart. Go for the full fuse- it won't take that much more time than the tack. Don't skimp on the anneal either.
Last night's moon was amazing, appearing 14% larger than usual (we're told). Hope for clear skies tonight.
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- Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2009 9:23 am
- Location: San Diego ,Ca
Re: Strip to chop
Thank you,
I have read (not sure where now) that when making pattern bars people tack them instead of ff to keep crisper lines when using them in other work. That's why I asked about this. When I made a bunch of very complex designed pattern bars the colors did run a bit in the ff. . Is there top temperature that I could go for that would fuse them enough? With my rod bowls I went to 1480 for 18 m , 2 hour anneal for the 3/8... I have a MK wet saw with diamond blade. I could make this 2 pieces of 10x20. Would sawing it up be better if it was smaller?
We walked out of the theatre (superman) to the supermoon! Last night
Have a great day!
Sheree
I have read (not sure where now) that when making pattern bars people tack them instead of ff to keep crisper lines when using them in other work. That's why I asked about this. When I made a bunch of very complex designed pattern bars the colors did run a bit in the ff. . Is there top temperature that I could go for that would fuse them enough? With my rod bowls I went to 1480 for 18 m , 2 hour anneal for the 3/8... I have a MK wet saw with diamond blade. I could make this 2 pieces of 10x20. Would sawing it up be better if it was smaller?
We walked out of the theatre (superman) to the supermoon! Last night
Have a great day!
Sheree
Re: Strip to chop
When I want very crisp lines I do less heat work.
I have had no trouble with anything coming apart when I take it to the tile saw if I only go to a soft fuse temp (1420 hold 5 minutes), and I've even gone as low as 1400 with no hold with no tile saw issues. The 1400/0 was to keep the dark stripe some opals will give you with less heat work (not a reaction, with most colors it gives a darker shade of the color- look at the edge of a cut strip, what you see is pretty much what you get).
Less heat work combined with using the shelf side as the top in the finished piece gives me very crisp, straight lines.
I use Bullseye Glass, here is what I do
ramp/target/hold
300/900/15
500/1100/0
100/1250/30
AFAP/1420/5
AFAP/900/60
50/800/0
100/700/0
300/100/0
Works for me, YMMV.
I have had no trouble with anything coming apart when I take it to the tile saw if I only go to a soft fuse temp (1420 hold 5 minutes), and I've even gone as low as 1400 with no hold with no tile saw issues. The 1400/0 was to keep the dark stripe some opals will give you with less heat work (not a reaction, with most colors it gives a darker shade of the color- look at the edge of a cut strip, what you see is pretty much what you get).
Less heat work combined with using the shelf side as the top in the finished piece gives me very crisp, straight lines.
I use Bullseye Glass, here is what I do
ramp/target/hold
300/900/15
500/1100/0
100/1250/30
AFAP/1420/5
AFAP/900/60
50/800/0
100/700/0
300/100/0
Works for me, YMMV.
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- Posts: 235
- Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2009 9:23 am
- Location: San Diego ,Ca
Re: Strip to chop
Haley,
Thank you very much, that's exactly what I was looking and hoping for!! Really appreciate the schedule as well.
Sheree
Thank you very much, that's exactly what I was looking and hoping for!! Really appreciate the schedule as well.
Sheree
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Re: Strip to chop
A wee note on thick tack fused items:
Tack fuses are much more difficult to adequately anneal than full fused ones. This may have an effect while cutting.
Tack fuses are much more difficult to adequately anneal than full fused ones. This may have an effect while cutting.
Steve Richard
You can view my Blog at: http://verrier-glass.blogspot.com/
You can view my Blog at: http://verrier-glass.blogspot.com/
Re: Strip to chop
Tack fuse will take longer because of the longer anneal, is more likely to have coldworking issues than full fuse. If either tack or full works for your project, I'd use the flat, saves time.
Cynthia Morgan
Marketeer, Webbist, Glassist
http://www.morganica.com/bloggery
http://www.cynthiamorgan.com
"I wrote, therefore I was." (me)
Marketeer, Webbist, Glassist
http://www.morganica.com/bloggery
http://www.cynthiamorgan.com
"I wrote, therefore I was." (me)
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- Posts: 235
- Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2009 9:23 am
- Location: San Diego ,Ca
Re: Strip to chop
I don't really care how long it's in the kiln. I do care very much if the lines will be straighter and easier to join to other items. What my plan was (is) taking a full kiln shelve of strips, after tacking them or fusing them, cutting them and rejoining them. They are 3 colors and I wanted to cut them and turn every other one.
What I worried about with a full fuse is that they would be obvious that I did this. (After cutting and fusing) I want the seams to be flawless when I rejoin them .
Is there a happy medium? What would be the best approach here?
Thank you!
What I worried about with a full fuse is that they would be obvious that I did this. (After cutting and fusing) I want the seams to be flawless when I rejoin them .
Is there a happy medium? What would be the best approach here?
Thank you!
Re: Strip to chop
Your set up is important- cut the strips as exactly as you can. Keep the set-up tight, don't leave any space between the strips. Sometimes BE glass will bow after you break out the strips- cut the arced strips at the high points so you have shorter straight pieces (don't worry about the break, it won't show if you keep the strip in sequence).
Go for the full fuse, there's no good reason not to. You'll end up with straight lines on both sides and will have a choice of crisp or crisper.
Go for the full fuse, there's no good reason not to. You'll end up with straight lines on both sides and will have a choice of crisp or crisper.
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- Posts: 235
- Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2009 9:23 am
- Location: San Diego ,Ca
Re: Strip to chop
Thank you Barry, they are fully fusing now! I really appreciate the help! Its so very nice to to have artists helping others like this and Im looking forward to "passing it on" when i get accomplished like a lot of you are!