Good morning everybody,
If I dam a piece with iridescent glass - will it save me from cold working the edges of the piece?
I want to do a relatively big piece. I do not want to cold work the edges, therefore was thinking about this kind off solution.
I'd welcome other solutions too, if there are any.
Many thanks in advance,
Havi
'Damming ' with iridescent glass
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'Damming ' with iridescent glass
Haviva Z
- - - - with a smile
"Speed comes from the Devil" - (an Arabic proverb)

http://www.havivaz.com
- - - - with a smile

"Speed comes from the Devil" - (an Arabic proverb)

http://www.havivaz.com
Re: 'Damming ' with iridescent glass
Havi,
Irid will stick to the unfinished sides of your glass - so I don't think it's a good material to use to for a dam. I think you have to have irid to irid before it will not adhere.
Barb
Irid will stick to the unfinished sides of your glass - so I don't think it's a good material to use to for a dam. I think you have to have irid to irid before it will not adhere.
Barb
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- Location: Northern California
Re: 'Damming ' with iridescent glass
Hi Havi,
Take a look at Bullseye tip sheet 3 "Working Deep" which uses irid for the sides:
https://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-i ... -deep.html
Experiment with a small pieces, say 4" or 5" square and 1" deep, and see if the results are what you desire.
This is a trial piece using three layers with powered leaves, using 22 layer of BE Crystal Clear plus irid for the sides, as in the tip sheet. I first fired two layers at a time then stacked them all with the sides and used dams.
Charlotte
Take a look at Bullseye tip sheet 3 "Working Deep" which uses irid for the sides:
https://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-i ... -deep.html
Experiment with a small pieces, say 4" or 5" square and 1" deep, and see if the results are what you desire.
This is a trial piece using three layers with powered leaves, using 22 layer of BE Crystal Clear plus irid for the sides, as in the tip sheet. I first fired two layers at a time then stacked them all with the sides and used dams.
Charlotte
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Re: 'Damming ' with iridescent glass
Thanks Charlotte,
I knew I read it somewhere.
I want to make a relatively big rectangle - but I do not want to deal with coldworking, this the reason why I asked about in the first place.
I'd rather not do the piece at all then having to coldwork its edges, strange as it may sound.
Thanx a lot,
Havi
I knew I read it somewhere.
I want to make a relatively big rectangle - but I do not want to deal with coldworking, this the reason why I asked about in the first place.
I'd rather not do the piece at all then having to coldwork its edges, strange as it may sound.
Thanx a lot,
Havi
Haviva Z
- - - - with a smile
"Speed comes from the Devil" - (an Arabic proverb)

http://www.havivaz.com
- - - - with a smile

"Speed comes from the Devil" - (an Arabic proverb)

http://www.havivaz.com
-
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Sat Dec 12, 2009 10:43 pm
- Location: Northern California
Re: 'Damming ' with iridescent glass
Hi Havi,
Also read Dr. Steve Immerman's excellent tutorial on dams. Scroll to the bottom for example of deep work.
http://www.clearwaterglass.com/Tutorial ... print.html
He mentions that cutting and fitting the glass with precision is the key. Use a Morton cutting system or similar. Also, squaring up the dams (ship lap) , 1/8 fiber, and then thin fire facing the irid glass.
My big block came out fine except one corner was a little askew (due to a measuring/squaring up issue as I did not have my Morton System then) but other than that it did not need cold work.
There is a new Patty Gray mold "Big Dam Mold" 8" x10" x 5/8" that might be helpful if you can find it in Israel:
http://www.sunshineglass.com/rcol/b_fus ... lds-36.htm
Hope this helps.
I am just a beginner (3 years) but have learned so much from the generous board members!
Also read Dr. Steve Immerman's excellent tutorial on dams. Scroll to the bottom for example of deep work.
http://www.clearwaterglass.com/Tutorial ... print.html
He mentions that cutting and fitting the glass with precision is the key. Use a Morton cutting system or similar. Also, squaring up the dams (ship lap) , 1/8 fiber, and then thin fire facing the irid glass.
My big block came out fine except one corner was a little askew (due to a measuring/squaring up issue as I did not have my Morton System then) but other than that it did not need cold work.
There is a new Patty Gray mold "Big Dam Mold" 8" x10" x 5/8" that might be helpful if you can find it in Israel:
http://www.sunshineglass.com/rcol/b_fus ... lds-36.htm
Hope this helps.

Re: 'Damming ' with iridescent glass
Thanks a lot, Charlotte,
Looked at Immerman's website and saw what you meant.
Thank you
Havi
Looked at Immerman's website and saw what you meant.
Thank you
Havi
Haviva Z
- - - - with a smile
"Speed comes from the Devil" - (an Arabic proverb)

http://www.havivaz.com
- - - - with a smile

"Speed comes from the Devil" - (an Arabic proverb)

http://www.havivaz.com