Shelf wash or paper?

[kbuczek]

I am getting ready to but my first kiln and some of the supplies to get started. It looks like getting the shelf properly prepared is time consuming, and not very fun. Can i use paper alone, or do i still need the shelf primer/wash.
Lastly, a local shop help me select the Evenheat 18-13 kiln. They showed me the Evenheat catalog and it is over $1,300 plus whatever markup they add to it. The ceramic shop sells it for under $1,100. Same controller. Am i missing something? All things being equal, Im wondering if buying from somebody local would be best for the support they may offer.
Karen

[S.TImmerman]

Karen,

That kiln is a 240v so you'll need the proper wiring. When I had it done by an electrician it was about 80.00.
As for kiln wash, a new kiln you'll want to kiln wash the floor (don't get any on the elements) every so often. You can use kiln paper on the shelf and you'll need kiln wash or a boron spray for your molds. If you can find it local it may be cheaper as you won't have to pay to ship it.
Gently used kilns are much easier to find this time of year.
Have fun and enjoy the process.
Shereen

[rosanna gusler]

you also need to kilnwash the shelf even if you use the paper. paper can fail if you have a hi temp misfire.

[Jeanne]

Kiln washing the shelf is no biggie. Just follow the instructions for mixing and put on the appropriate number of coats. I keep a modest batch mixed in a 1 q1 plastic container. I just mix it up with a paint stick before each application with a hake brush. When the last coat has dried I go over it lightly with a fine sanding block to smooth it out. Having used both paper and kiln wash, I prefer the kiln wash hands down. The paper smells and occasionally I've had it leave a haze on the edge of the piece (thinfire). Plus the paper is pretty expensive. As said previously, make sure you kiln wash the floor of your kiln and dry it out by firing the kiln (per manufacturer's instructions). I've had the Evenheat 18-9 for 10 years now and still love it.

[lmartine]

When the last coat has dried I go over it lightly with a fine sanding block to smooth it out. Having used both paper and kiln wash, I prefer the kiln wash hands down.

Hi Jeanne,

I tried your suggestion this afternoon as I am not crazy about the fine lines that the haike brush leaves on the shelf, and it nearly removed all the KW ( ). I used 1500 grit paper, and I thought that I was applying very light pressure... Your two cents would be much appreciated!

Lucie

[Jeanne]

How many coats are you using? I use BE kilnwash. I put on 4 or 5 coats in alternate directions - just following the mixing and application directions. A little will dust up when I sand - you just need a very light touch. I use one of the spackle sanding blocks - the fine side.

[charlie]

[quote="Jeanne"]How many coats are you using? I use BE kilnwash. I put on 4 or 5 coats in alternate directions - just following the mixing and application directions. A little will dust up when I sand - you just need a very light touch. I use one of the spackle sanding blocks - the fine side.[/quote]

use a piece of copy paper flat to burnish the wash.

[S.TImmerman]

Hi Jeanne,

I tried your suggestion this afternoon as I am not crazy about the fine lines that the haike brush leaves on the shelf, and it nearly removed all the KW ( ). I used 1500 grit paper, and I thought that I was applying very light pressure... Your two cents would be much appreciated!

Lucie[/quote]


I stole a pair of nylons from my mother and cut the legs. Brush the wadded nylons and you'll get rid of any sign of brush marks. Just be sure you don't take off so much that it's ineffective.

[Laurie Spray]

Warm water and a smooth spongue will fix it.......just wipe it across the kiln wash a few times.