Murrini

[jim burchett]

So I have pulled the vitrigraph, I have cut the rods into 1/2" lengths, Now trying to lay them out in a circular ring, This like trying to herd cats! Trying to get the pieces to standup while loading is proving to be very frustrating. Is there something i am missing? I now have the ring standing on edge with a sheet of glass backing and am trying to lay the pieces in..its working a bit better but I am anticipating problems as it fills. Anny suggestions would be appreciated.

[Kevin Midgley]

there is a reason to make the murrine shorter.... less likely to fall over... perhaps.
are they flat on the ends? Might be worth grinding them flat on a lap.
tried tilting the shelf until the whole lot is assembled?

[jim burchett]

Using mosaic cutters flat on a surface to make a uniform height...Reasonably flat. Am going to try tilting the form while assembling. Thanks

[Joyce Walters]

Cynthia Morgan has a fun tutorial on her website involving tape laid out with sticky side up. You will find much info there.
Joyce

[Haydo]

Jim,it's a bugger when you want to set up with the murrini placed in a certain position due to patterns etc. All it wants to do is have a mind of its own. Had a piece like that last year,remedied it by finishing ends on the flat lap as each had to be orientated. This week I cut 5mm thick murrini from various diameter cane on diamond saw and a quick touch on the flat lap. Talk about filling in time. While I'm doing all of this I'm kicking myself for being less than patient, just hooked in to get what I wanted this way because I knew the mosaic cutters weren't up to this. What came to mind was a video link I saw years ago from this forum. Can't give credit because I don't know the woman's name. She bundled a whole bunch of cane and then cast that into a plaster block. When it cured she was able to accurately cut many in each pass. I'd imagine each end would be square and flush. good luck, haydo

[Sharol]

Hi Jim. I've been pulling and laying up a lot of Murrine lately. In the beginning getting them to stand up was driving me crazy. This was mainly due to angled ends. If you're having trouble keeping the ends straight, just keep practicing. Trust me, you'll get the hang of it. One thing that helped me a lot was switching from the opposing disk-type of cutter to this one. Bullseye sells them online. This cutter also reduces hand fatigue, which was a problem for me over time. Thicker canes are harder to cut, but make Murrine that are easier to stand up.

[jim burchett]

Thanks for the suggestions..After cutting two pulls worth of came into what turned out to be 16mm...Just to get a uniform length..I am going to have to figure a method to make repeated uniform length cuts shorter. The opposing wheel cutter works OK for me.

[Peter McCarthy]

I really like M-D Building Products compound nippers: https://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Pro ... B000FSAUX4. They require less effort then other nippers. And when I'm doing hundreds of cuts, they're much easier on my wrist.

Also, I get more flat cuts by using quick, hard pressure rather than a steady squeeze. That might not make sense to you; it's hard to explain in words what I mean. Experiment with different amounts of cutting pressure, and maybe you'll see what I mean. I still get some dished murrine, but no where near as many.

[Lynn Perry]

I put a cutter cozy on each handle of the nippers, and it helped reduce the pain considerably. You can purchase the cozy at many places.

http://www.cuttersmate.com/cuttercozy.html

[Sharol]

Thanks Peter for posting the link. I went ahead and ordered one. It will be nteresting to see how I adapt to positioning the cutting blades perpendicular, rather than parallel to the cane. I'm curious if you found it to be heavy in hand after a bit of use. I do believe I need to start some grip strengthening exercises!

Sharol

[Peter McCarthy]

The choppers are relatively heavy, but I rest them on the bin I chop into, so I don't get fatigued.

chop 1.jpg (50.92 KiB) Viewed 39757 times

[Kevin Midgley]

From the photo, Peter is using those murrini cutters incorrectly in terms of arm positioning.
As this is a repetitive motion it is particularly risky behavior in terms of raising the risk of developing carpal tunnel.
If you design your set up to keep your elbows touching the sides of your body as well as support the weight of the tool, you will reduce the risk.
That set up could within an hour have my arms screaming in pain for days.
Strong hand squeezing motions using a heavy tool held at a distance from the body is a recipe for pain.
Elbows tucked in and touching the sides of your body is your 'power position' and key to avoiding it all.

[Rick Wilton]

laydown a bed of clear powder to stand them up on, this will provide a leveling surface.

[jim simmons]

How about a small glass saw? I don't know the name of the manufacturer of a great one.
I will post it when my old brain cells get working.
The other Jim

[Haydo]

This is a work still in progress. Will be experimenting with the angle on base edge to see if a more precise end to cane can be achieved. I don't bother going too short but it's great for repetitive longer lengths. Making the base more acute will definitely have to improve the release of chopped piece, as sometimes this can happen. I can get a fair speed going. - haydo

[jim simmons]

AHA!!! I just remembered./ I just remembered.
http://www.ameritool-inc.com/videos/tri ... -setup.htm
The addled other Jim



It is a small saw excelent for this.
Put some kind of stop on the bed and you will have murine the same length.
Coming out of your ears.
It is manafactured by Ameritool
Sorry I don't have a url right now.
The other Jim

How about a small glass saw? I don't know the name of the manufacturer of a great one.
I will post it when my old brain cells get working.
The other Jim

[seachange]

Thank you for posting this interesting question and thread. Nathan Sandberg is coming to Australia later this year, and I have registered for his class. I must say that the murrini cutting part has been playing in my mind.

Trying to find some effective ways, not too hard on the hands, not too time consuming, I came across this article http://mapleleafpassivehouse.com/how-to ... our-hands/

Probably interesting for those of you that like to build your own equipment.

I am very relieved to know that the Ameritool saw will do a good job. Bought one a few years ago, used it only once. Was feeling guilty about it sitting on a shelf doing nothing.

Thank you all, seachange

[seachange]

[quote="It is a small saw excelent for this.
Put some kind of stop on the bed and you will have murine the same length.
Coming out of your ears.[quote="jim simmons"]

Hi other Jim

Could you please let me know if you cut the canes individually, or bundled 2 or more together?

Is the water that goes into the tank sufficient, or have you rigged an extra water system going on to the blade?

I'll be thankful for any other tips you could give me from your experience. Now I know this works, I am looking forward to Nathan's class a lot more.

Many thanks, seachange

[jim simmons]

[quote="It is a small saw excelent for this.
Put some kind of stop on the bed and you will have murine the same length.
Coming out of your ears.

Hi other Jim

Could you please let me know if you cut the canes individually, or bundled 2 or more together?
I have bundled 3 at a time.



Is the water that goes into the tank sufficient, or have you rigged an extra water system going on to the blade?

the include tank is ok. just keep it filled with H2O



I'll be thankful for any other tips you could give me from your experience. Now I know this works, I am looking forward to Nathan's class a lot more.

Many thanks, seachange

[seachange]

Hi Jim Simmons

Many thanks for your reply, I appreciate it.

Best regards, seachange