Hello People
I have seen some glass made in a way i honestly i dindnt understand how they was made.
I will show you some fotos and my idea.
So in my idea i think that there is an surface etching ok, then the part we see shine and textured i think can be a sandcarved area then put somethinng in (like acid...or something like chipping) to create a texture.
In the end transparent varnish in the groove to get shiny
If the process can be in this way,after sandcarving what is the process to create texture and chipping ?
thanks for support and collaboration
mike from italy
deep texturing in sanblasting ?
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deep texturing in sanblasting ?
thanks for sharing !
mike from italy
"secret of success?... passion & experience"
http://www.picturetrail.com/mikefromitaly
mike from italy
"secret of success?... passion & experience"
http://www.picturetrail.com/mikefromitaly
Re: deep texturing in sanblasting ?
Mike, this looks as though the textured part has been achieved by ‘masking’ with a mottled application of adhesive that will dry hard, such as Elmer’s glue, or woodworker’s glue. Leave some areas unmasked in a random way so the sand carving will be ’lumpy’. When a shallow carve has been achieved stop and pick off the glue and continue carving so there is depth over all the selected area. The parts already carved will get deeper, those carved in the second round will be shallower creating the uneven texture.
Your assessment of the rest of the work sounds right. I've made lots of pieces this way. Jen
Your assessment of the rest of the work sounds right. I've made lots of pieces this way. Jen
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Re: deep texturing in sanblasting ?
Mike,
Jen is right. Deep texture from sandblasting comes from applying resist like white glue or caulking in an irregular manner. The idea is that you apply glue over an area, then texture it with a sponge, brush or fork to get high and low areas and let it dry. As you sandblast, the thin areas erode away faster than the thick areas. You could also pick away at the resist material, but I would rather find a material that will just blast away like white glue.
Another possibility is to use rabbit hide glue over sandblast and glue chip areas of the glass. That gives a completely different texture than sandblasting. http://letterheadsignsupply.com/how-to- ... structions.
I hope this helps.
Tony
Jen is right. Deep texture from sandblasting comes from applying resist like white glue or caulking in an irregular manner. The idea is that you apply glue over an area, then texture it with a sponge, brush or fork to get high and low areas and let it dry. As you sandblast, the thin areas erode away faster than the thick areas. You could also pick away at the resist material, but I would rather find a material that will just blast away like white glue.
Another possibility is to use rabbit hide glue over sandblast and glue chip areas of the glass. That gives a completely different texture than sandblasting. http://letterheadsignsupply.com/how-to- ... structions.
I hope this helps.
Tony
The tightrope between being strange and being creative is too narrow to walk without occasionally landing on both sides..." Scott Berkun
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Re: deep texturing in sanblasting ?
hi and thank you both for your help
In my opinion i think it is better for me first sancarving areas and then put in hide animal glue to create glue cjipping effect in the groove
thank you for support and collaboration
mike
In my opinion i think it is better for me first sancarving areas and then put in hide animal glue to create glue cjipping effect in the groove
thank you for support and collaboration
mike
thanks for sharing !
mike from italy
"secret of success?... passion & experience"
http://www.picturetrail.com/mikefromitaly
mike from italy
"secret of success?... passion & experience"
http://www.picturetrail.com/mikefromitaly
Re: deep texturing in sanblasting ?
Mike, the glue-chip method is probably overkill if you're trying to replicate the narrow flower stems and other decorative elements in the photos you posted. If you want to texture larger areas such as those in the link Tony posted you'll find the chipping will create definite patterns which would be wasted in the narrow areas such as stems.
The nice thing about the white glue is that it comes in a squeeze bottle with a dispenser tip. You don't have to boil anything up or struggle to apply it in the relative depths you want, not to mention the smell of heated hide glue. As Tony said, the glue will blast off without your having to pick it off but if you're doing a shallow carve you may have to blast for too long in a small delicate piece of the design which could spoil the effect if you don't remove the excess residual glue. Jen
The nice thing about the white glue is that it comes in a squeeze bottle with a dispenser tip. You don't have to boil anything up or struggle to apply it in the relative depths you want, not to mention the smell of heated hide glue. As Tony said, the glue will blast off without your having to pick it off but if you're doing a shallow carve you may have to blast for too long in a small delicate piece of the design which could spoil the effect if you don't remove the excess residual glue. Jen