Technique for stenciling colored powders

Shannon macklin · Post by **Shannon macklin** » Wed Mar 24, 2004 2:28 pm

I have seen different designs that I beleive are stenciled on glass with an assortment of colors in each design with good detail.

I would like to learn this technique. Is each color glued down before moving to the next color? Or is glue used? If so, is it sprayed on and what works best?

Can anyone help me or tell me if there is a book or literature on this subject? Thanks.....

Kathie Karancz · Post by **Kathie Karancz** » Wed Mar 24, 2004 3:05 pm

Hey Shannon: I use stencils with Paradise paints and with glass powders.
Powders: When I put my stencil on the glass, I get a small paint brush with a small amount of glue on it and then dab the glass inside the stencil hole. Then I use a little sifter and tap the powder into the stencil area. I then gently lift the stencil off the glass. As the powder will shift when you are taking the stencil off, I then use a rubber brush I bought from the ceramic store and gently "push" the powder back in place. I have heard then that some people gently spray the powder with hairspray to keep it in place.
Glass Paints: Put stencil on glass, paint stencil on glass area.
Fire away

That's it.....

Vic · Post by **Vic** » Wed Mar 24, 2004 7:08 pm

With glass paints you can lay down a mat. then use the stencil and a scrub brush to remove paint.

Kathie Karancz · Post by **Kathie Karancz** » Wed Mar 24, 2004 7:19 pm

Sorry Vic, but huh??????

Could you explain a bit more. What do you mean by a mat??
Confused????

Bert Weiss · Post by **Bert Weiss** » Wed Mar 24, 2004 7:40 pm

Kathie Karancz wrote:Sorry Vic, but huh??????
Could you explain a bit more. What do you mean by a mat??
Confused????

Kathie

Get "The Art of Painting on Glass" by Albinus Elskus. In it he explains the traditional glass painting techniques used for centuries to make stained glass windows. Matting is the process of laying down an even (or uneven) coating of enamel. It can then be removed with brushes called scrubs. Good matting requires a badger blender paint brush. They are expensive, good though. I bought my 4" Hamilton in the early 1980's for $160. Reusche doesn't even sell this model any more. They do sell a smaller one that works almost as well.

Don Burt · Post by **Don Burt** » Wed Mar 24, 2004 8:55 pm

Shannon, you've seen multiple colors with good detail? My guess is that its silkscreened. You can do that. People here can tell you how.

You asked about spray: thats what I do. I spray through cut stencils. Or spray on, and wipe out with a stylus, similar to what Vic describes about matting. I get best results if I fire between colors. But I try combine multiple applications in one firing for obvious economy. The design and chosen colors dictate to what ability you can spray multiple colors without prefiring in between.

If instead you sift dry powdered glass enamel through stencils, you're limited in detail and definition, unless you sandblast or carve the detail later.

lohman · Post by **lohman** » Wed Mar 24, 2004 9:25 pm

Has anyone ever heard of a latex mask used in sign painting called "Spraylat" You roll or brush on a good couple of coats and let it dry(it is a water-base and it evaporates turning from milky to clear-ish blue).
Then you cut with an Exacto, strip away what you want to paint (or fill with powdered glass). Then strip away the mask (it comes away very clean, then fire. Now I've only used it as a signpainter years ago but this discussion reminded me and I happen to be trying some powders now and thought I might try it. I thought I'd use ClearFire (?) as the binder to hold the powders.
You can probably get "Spraylat" from a sign industry supplier that services shops that do the large back'lit plastic sign faces. Truth be told it was in the late 70s early 80s so it might not be used anymore.

lohman · Post by **lohman** » Wed Mar 24, 2004 9:41 pm

Me again.

Thomas Register turned up:

<http://www.spraylat.com>

The Spraylat Corporation
716-T S Columbus Ave.
Mt. Vernon, NY 10550-4795

PH: 914-699-3030[/url]

Mark Hughes · Post by **Mark Hughes** » Thu Mar 25, 2004 10:38 am

I use Spraylat, it is great for touching up etchings (remasking areas where the origional mask didn't hold and for texturing) and masking 3D and uneven or bumpy surfaces. Because you paint it on it works great with stencils and for different effects. A little bit goes a long way. I got 2 quarts 15 years ago and still have some left.

lohman · Post by **lohman** » Thu Mar 25, 2004 4:46 pm

Mark,

Do you use it for acid etching or for sandblasting? I think the film is tough enough to resist the blasting but I wonder if it adheres tight enough to resist the "wind".

Mark Hughes · Post by **Mark Hughes** » Thu Mar 25, 2004 8:07 pm

I use it for sandblasting. If you are going deep you just brush it on thicker, it adheres to the glass wonderfully and pulls off clean.

lohman · Post by **lohman** » Thu Mar 25, 2004 9:18 pm

Mark,

How deep do you go and with what abrasive?
psi?
cfm?

Looks like I'll be doing an experiment.

Brock · Post by **Brock** » Thu Mar 25, 2004 9:40 pm

Mark Hughes wrote:I use Spraylat, it is great for touching up etchings (remasking areas where the origional mask didn't hold and for texturing) and masking 3D and uneven or bumpy surfaces. Because you paint it on it works great with stencils and for different effects. A little bit goes a long way. I got 2 quarts 15 years ago and still have some left.

I've used something like that, it was sign painter's Screening Goop, or something. Heavy, blue latexy goop that dries pretty quickly and has good resistance to grit. We were blasting details into previously blasted areas, AlOx at 45 lbs. but it would take a lot more pressure. Also can be abraded before blasting for painterly textures, like brushstrokes. Also, I think makes a more subtle edge, due to it's application, (brush) over the exact edge of a stencil or cut resist. Interesting stuff. Brock

Lynne Chappell · Post by **Lynne Chappell** » Fri Mar 26, 2004 2:26 am

There are two brands that I've used - the sign painters used to call it "grip mask". The Spraylat ends up like a plastic sheet, so it pulls up easily, and holds its edge fairly well. Under sandblasting, if you want the edge to slowly degrade, then the Akzo brand works better - its more rubbery. I've never used it for painting stencils but I don't see why not. You can put it down with a brush, palette knife, sponge, etc for other interesting effects. Probably not the best thing for powder though as I think you would disturb the powder removing it. Hmm. Maybe you don't need to remove it, just burn it off. Wonder if the fumes are toxic, I would assume that might be a good possibility.

AVLucky · Post by **AVLucky** » Sat Mar 27, 2004 10:51 am

Shannon, do you mean stuff like this?

http://5thavenuegifts.com/peggykarr_wildlife.asp

because I think Kathie's description is sometimes used for those effects.
Traditional glass painting is a whole different thing.

[quote="Bert Weiss]
Get "The Art of Painting on Glass" by Albinus Elskus. In it he explains the traditional glass painting techniques used for centuries to make stained glass windows. Matting is the process of laying down an even (or uneven) coating of enamel. It can then be removed with brushes called scrubs. Good matting requires a badger blender paint brush. They are expensive, good though. I bought my 4" Hamilton in the early 1980's for $160. Reusche doesn't even sell this model any more. They do sell a smaller one that works almost as well.[/quote]

Elskus' book is essential. I've had access to good quality brushes at my job and in several classes, but I just recently picked up a student kit from Delphi glass for my own use at home. It runs about $100, and includes a student-grade badger brush, which I think is also sold separately for about $30 (

) Having used the cheaper brush, I still prefer the quality ones, but honestly, the student ones really aren't bad. The bristles are a bit coarser, and they tend to drop hairs a little more often (usually right in the middle of a perfectly matted piece

), but overall, a decent brush for beginners.