A design idea I'm working on would involve breaking a fused, 6 mm blank. I want the blank to be broken into 2 pieces, with the break being somewhat, but not totally, random; so smashing the piece isn't an option. I want the edges along the separation to appear organic, not sawn. My thought on accomplishing this is to score from an edge, part way into the interior of the blank, then put running pliers on the score, squeeze, and see what happens.
I haven't been scoring and breaking glass for very long, so I'm soliciting advice/opinions on my plan. Is this a viable manner of accomplishing what I have in mind? How far into the piece should the score go so that the break is initiated where I intend, and is directed into the heart of the piece, but then follows it's own course?
TIA,
Cliff
Scoring to break fused blank?
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Cliff,
For a random run, try using mosaic cutters, the type with the wheels. You can get a single, free running crack like I think you are describing... of course, it might not go exctly in the direction you were hoping, but try it and judge for yourself.
Tony
For a random run, try using mosaic cutters, the type with the wheels. You can get a single, free running crack like I think you are describing... of course, it might not go exctly in the direction you were hoping, but try it and judge for yourself.
Tony
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Re: Scoring to break fused blank?
CliffCliff Swanson wrote:A design idea I'm working on would involve breaking a fused, 6 mm blank. I want the blank to be broken into 2 pieces, with the break being somewhat, but not totally, random; so smashing the piece isn't an option. I want the edges along the separation to appear organic, not sawn. My thought on accomplishing this is to score from an edge, part way into the interior of the blank, then put running pliers on the score, squeeze, and see what happens.
I haven't been scoring and breaking glass for very long, so I'm soliciting advice/opinions on my plan. Is this a viable manner of accomplishing what I have in mind? How far into the piece should the score go so that the break is initiated where I intend, and is directed into the heart of the piece, but then follows it's own course?
TIA,
Cliff
I have to admit that I am not very good with this idea, but I have been told that it is leanable. Start your crack with a short score and running pliers and then lead it along with a porpane torch. With just the right touch you can coax the break one way or another. Definitely try it out on some scrap glass there is a learning curve.
Bert
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Bert Weiss Art Glass*
http://www.customartglass.com
Furniture Lighting Sculpture Tableware
Architectural Commissions
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Thanks for the replies
Bert... This idea really intrigues me. I'm definitely going to try it.
Tony... I may try out the mosaic cutters, but that would involve buying another tool... Wait, maybe that's not such a bad thing!
Robert....Chipping might not be so bad in this design, but be that as it may, I'm much more keen on the idea of the organic look of a random break than a scored line. May turn out that your suggestion becomes the mode though if I can't make things work any differently.
Thanks again.
Cliff

Bert... This idea really intrigues me. I'm definitely going to try it.
Tony... I may try out the mosaic cutters, but that would involve buying another tool... Wait, maybe that's not such a bad thing!

Robert....Chipping might not be so bad in this design, but be that as it may, I'm much more keen on the idea of the organic look of a random break than a scored line. May turn out that your suggestion becomes the mode though if I can't make things work any differently.
Thanks again.
Cliff