Tack fusing frit (after slump)

[Jon Wunderlich]

Hi all,

I haven't done this yet but wanted some feedback before I got started. I did make a fiber blanket mold of a mask and am going to do a piece to slump into it. My question is, can I tack fuse frit (powder) to it after it's slumped if I keep it in the mold and how high can I go without distorting the first slump? This will just be some detail but I'm not sure I want to do to much before the first slump as it will be hard to tell if the eyes, nose, mouth etc., will end up where they should be.

Thanks,

Jon

[The Hobbyist]

I don't know about tack fusing AFTER the slump but I very often will tack AND slump.

Why not tack fuse BEFORE the slump?

JIm

[Bert Weiss]

The issue is mostly keeping the frit on the glass before it tacks on. Glue burns out before the glass softens so gravity is in play. The mold will support the shape. I agree with Jim to try and get the job done in one firing.

[Jon Wunderlich]

I just wasn't sure I could make all the features end up where they should be. But I'll give it a try.

Thanks,

Jon

[Carol]

I will sometimes do a full fuse firing to get most of the elements in place with a smooth full fused look, then do a second tack fuse to attach frit if I want it to stay textured and/or raised. Then the slump would be a third firing.

Carol

[Peg]

I tack fuse DURING the slump - I full fuse the frit first to make it 'bead up'. I get flat-bottomed beads that tack on giving a raindrop effect.
All this is Bullsye - full fuse at 836, slump at 760 (celsius). The slump is quite hot, and I'm not sure what would happen with a steep-sided slump, whether the beads would stick or roll...

[doleson]

Peg, do you have a picture of your technique?
Thanks,
Doug

[Peg]

Peg, do you have a picture of your technique?
Thanks,
Doug

er... well, I borrowed a digital camera last night and took some snaps and set up a website.. I don't have many examples 'in stock' at the moment - but hopefully the pics give a vague impression of what I mean. The blue dish actually has bits of pre-fused rod tack-fused on, and the curved edges show the effect of slumping at a high enough temperature for a decent tack fuse to happen at the same time. Next time I think I'll full fuse, then tack fuse then slump, to minimise distortion. (The mould was about 6cm deep, 2 inches in old money). The red dish has pre-fused coarse frit tacked on. http://uk.geocities.com/peg_luddite/glasspix.html

[Cindy next door]

That's a really good idea. Sometimes I would like to know for sure that elements would be where I want them to be.

I try experiments with a tester piece that doesn't matter. That way if it doesn't work it's not a big deal. I wouldn't try it on a piece you've been working on.

I might give this one a try too. Let us know how it works out.

Cindy next door