Tile saw question

Jon Wunderlich · Post by **Jon Wunderlich** » Mon May 26, 2003 8:59 pm

I was looking at a WorkForce 7" tile saw for $88.00 at Home Depot and was wondering if this is the kind of saw to use for glass also or if it needs to be of higher quality? I know a diamond blade would be required. Is it the saw or the blade that matters most?

Thanks,

Jon

Brock · Post by **Brock** » Mon May 26, 2003 9:01 pm

I think a good blade can make an inexpensive saw work okay, depends on how much you're going to use it. For big pattern bars, or cutting slabs, I'd go with the best saw you can afford. Brock

Linda Reed · Post by **Linda Reed** » Mon May 26, 2003 11:13 pm

I have a cheap Harbor Freight (Chicago Electric brand) tile saw (bought to, of all things, cut tile with)... but it works fine on 1/4" (2 - 3 layers) glass. I've never tried to cut anything thicker with it yet, so don't know how it would do on pattern bars or anything like that...

Linda

Phil Hoppes · Post by **Phil Hoppes** » Tue May 27, 2003 12:13 am

As with all things there are no free lunches. I have a saw similar to what you describe as well as the HF 10" saw. First off, both work and will cut glass. It all depends on what you want the saw for, how often you will use it, and how well you maintain it. I got that 7" saw as it was a bargin. Then I was making thicker pattern bars and discovered that that saw did not have a deep enough cut to cut the bars that I had just made. After a while I got the 10" saw from HF and put a very good blade (Result from HIS Glassworks). This saw works quite well and for most things it will do the job. My current work involves the use of LOTS of 1cm strips of glass cut from 1/4" glass. The table on the HF saw is not made very well and often binds, grabs, jerks and lots of other nasty things. The water feed system leaves much to be desired and if not paid a LOT of attention too, can ruin your blade. The bad table, which causes on bad days, about every 3rd or 4th strip I cut to break, will require a lot of screwing around with to make smooth. I can probably fix it but I may not. It boils down to do you poor a bunch of money in fixing something or get something better. If I only use something every now and then, I just grin a bear it, like most people. If, however, a particular is critical to my work and it's failure to work properly is costing me time and money and affecting the overall quality of my work, well then it is time to look for a better option.

Ask yourself the above questions. Like many people here on the board, I started small until I found it didn't meet my needs and then I looked for better options. It really is not a bad way to go as you learn a lot in the process. I still have my 7" saw and I use it usually for cutting up mullite shelves as I can cut a 22" shelf on it and I can't fit that on my 10" saw. Other than that, it has kind of become a paper weight.

Phil

Jon Wunderlich · Post by **Jon Wunderlich** » Tue May 27, 2003 1:07 am

Thanks for all the advice,

Just trying to do some research before I choose which saws to consider. Not that I don't trust the tile guy at H.D. but it's nice to get other opinions.

Jon

Kitty · Post by **Kitty** » Tue May 27, 2003 1:50 am

phil, if you could have the perfect saw for your work, what would it be? i'm getting ready to buy, and very likely will have to have it shipped, so it would be nice to have no regrets. thanks! kitty.

Phil Hoppes · Post by **Phil Hoppes** » Tue May 27, 2003 9:45 am

I have not used it but based on reputation and quality of what I've seen the MK100 I'm guessing is what I would get. I need to check the specifications. I'm looking to get a tile saw that will cut 20" or even bigger strips if I can. Most are limited to 16", maybe 18". Steve Immerman got one and seemed really pleased with it. He said that the table movement worked "Like butter". That would be very nice. I might get a bigger model if it will allow me to make longer cuts, but as I mentioned before, my needs are different. For most people I'm betting that if you can afford it, the MK100 would be the saw to get.

http://www.toolking.com/shop/view.asp?id=2968

You can pick up a reconditioned MK100 for $449. That is a pretty good deal.
(Just thought of this web page. I see the MK100 will do 20" cut so that looks like what I would probably get too.) If Steve see's this post maybe he can comment on what his experience has been so far with the MK100

Phil

gone · Post by **gone** » Tue May 27, 2003 1:37 pm

Phil Hoppes wrote:I have not used it but based on reputation and quality of what I've seen the MK100 I'm guessing is what I would get. I need to check the specifications. I'm looking to get a tile saw that will cut 20" or even bigger strips if I can. Most are limited to 16", maybe 18". Steve Immerman got one and seemed really pleased with it. He said that the table movement worked "Like butter". That would be very nice. I might get a bigger model if it will allow me to make longer cuts, but as I mentioned before, my needs are different. For most people I'm betting that if you can afford it, the MK100 would be the saw to get.

http://www.toolking.com/shop/view.asp?id=2968

You can pick up a reconditioned MK100 for $449. That is a pretty good deal.
(Just thought of this web page. I see the MK100 will do 20" cut so that looks like what I would probably get too.) If Steve see's this post maybe he can comment on what his experience has been so far with the MK100

Phil

Hi Phil,

I've found that the long strips break a lot less often on my little plastic tile saw with a 4" blade from Home Depot than my 10" Felker, which cuts wonderfully on big thick pattern bars. Maybe the big blade puts more pressure on it because of more more leverage? I don't know. The little saw has a blade that comes from underneath and therefore, your strips can be as long as you want. It's messy to use and I always end up bleeding a lot, but I thought I'd tell you about it.

Els

charlie · Post by **charlie** » Tue May 27, 2003 1:46 pm

Phil Hoppes wrote:I have not used it but based on reputation and quality of what I've seen the MK100 I'm guessing is what I would get. I need to check the specifications. I'm looking to get a tile saw that will cut 20" or even bigger strips if I can. Most are limited to 16", maybe 18". Steve Immerman got one and seemed really pleased with it. He said that the table movement worked "Like butter". That would be very nice. I might get a bigger model if it will allow me to make longer cuts, but as I mentioned before, my needs are different.

i've cut 20" tiles on my HF tile saw.

there's two ways to do this.

a: find styrofoam that is the same thickness as the back edge of the table. cut two pieces and place one on each side of the blade. you can then use the saw as a fixed table and just feed the glass into the blade.

b: you don't have to cut the glass with it flat on the table. let it overhang the back edge all you need. feed the table into the saw until the mid point of the glass. turn off the saw, draw the table back, feed the glas into the saw to near where you left off. turn on saw and finish cut.

also, you do know there's a zerk fitting on the sliding table runners that you have to hit every now and then with grease? i'd recommend water proof boat trailer grease (blue).

Steve Immerman · Post by **Steve Immerman** » Wed May 28, 2003 8:58 pm

I agree with all that Phil has posted. I have the 7" HF saw. I got a nice MK blade and it cuts well. But, the mechanism that allows the table to slide sticks and makes using it very awkward. I even attached a zerk fitting and lubed it up with no avail.

In frustration, I purchased the MK 100 - and there's no comparison. The MK mechanism is indeed "like buttah". I can make much more accurate right angle cuts. The water feed is right on target, and it is much, much quieter than the HF.

From Toolsdir.com http://www.toolsdir.com/shopping/featured.asp?id=2125
it comes with a sturdy stand, a tile blade, and free shipping for $559. To my surprise, the stand is very nice, and with the HTC1000 Universal Mobile Base from amazon.com I can roll the 100lb saw around without breaking a sweat.

I love this tool. Also, it's a really cool red color.

Steve

sadiesjewels · Post by **sadiesjewels** » Wed May 28, 2003 9:07 pm

If it's a really cool red, then I just must have it!!

Ready to order one as soon as I get my latest commision check!

Sadie - who still has her pattern bar to cut and has decided to go with a good saw.

Kitty · Post by **Kitty** » Wed May 28, 2003 9:22 pm

steve, thanks for the link. i've sent email re shipping logistics for my situation, and should hear back in a day. red is good ... it'll look nice with my red and chrome industrial cart. lol. kitty.

Brock · Post by **Brock** » Wed May 28, 2003 9:31 pm

Steve Immerman wrote:I agree with all that Phil has posted. I have the 7" HF saw. I got a nice MK blade and it cuts well. But, the mechanism that allows the table to slide sticks and makes using it very awkward. I even attached a zerk fitting and lubed it up with no avail.

In frustration, I purchased the MK 100 - and there's no comparison. The MK mechanism is indeed "like buttah". I can make much more accurate right angle cuts. The water feed is right on target, and it is much, much quieter than the HF.

From Toolsdir.com http://www.toolsdir.com/shopping/featured.asp?id=2125
it comes with a sturdy stand, a tile blade, and free shipping for $559. To my surprise, the stand is very nice, and with the HTC1000 Universal Mobile Base from amazon.com I can roll the 100lb saw around without breaking a sweat.

I love this tool. Also, it's a really cool red color.

Steve

Steve, have you done anything about the flimsy fence on the MK? It's really the weakest part of the saw, and always a problem for me. It seems that one set screw is not enough to hold that long flat aluminum bar in place, and even if it does, after a bit of use, you've actually made holes in the bar in screws into, and it becomes hard to adjust precisely. Phil, niche market! This is a job for you and Matt. Design some kind of acrylic fence that is attached, (in 2 places) from the outside edge of the table, and not the front. Everyone with an MK will buy one. Brock

Ron Coleman · Post by **Ron Coleman** » Wed May 28, 2003 10:13 pm

Brock wrote: Steve, have you done anything about the flimsy fence on the MK? It's really the weakest part of the saw, and always a problem for me. It seems that one set screw is not enough to hold that long flat aluminum bar in place, and even if it does, after a bit of use, you've actually made holes in the bar in screws into, and it becomes hard to adjust precisely. Phil, niche market! This is a job for you and Matt. Design some kind of acrylic fence that is attached, (in 2 places) from the outside edge of the table, and not the front. Everyone with an MK will buy one. Brock

Maybe something like this would work Brock. The blue bar would be the fence with a notch to fit over the edge of the sliding table. The red block would clamp on the outside edge of the table when you tighten the green screw. More surface area to clamp on the soft aluminum table and not cut holes in it.

Ron

Brock · Post by **Brock** » Wed May 28, 2003 10:20 pm

Ron Coleman wrote:
Brock wrote: Steve, have you done anything about the flimsy fence on the MK? It's really the weakest part of the saw, and always a problem for me. It seems that one set screw is not enough to hold that long flat aluminum bar in place, and even if it does, after a bit of use, you've actually made holes in the bar in screws into, and it becomes hard to adjust precisely. Phil, niche market! This is a job for you and Matt. Design some kind of acrylic fence that is attached, (in 2 places) from the outside edge of the table, and not the front. Everyone with an MK will buy one. Brock
Maybe something like this would work Brock. The blue bar would be the fence with a notch to fit over the edge of the sliding table. The red block would clamp on the outside edge of the table when you tighten the green screw. More surface area to clamp on the soft aluminum table and not cut holes in it.

Ron

It's certainly better than what they come with, but you still have the problem of pressure on the forward edge, (closest to the blade) of the fence moving it sideways. That's why I thought it should be held by 2 tensioners on the outside edge, (the right in your schematic) of the fence.

Ron Coleman · Post by **Ron Coleman** » Wed May 28, 2003 10:28 pm

Brock wrote: It's certainly better than what they come with, but you still have the problem of pressure on the forward edge, (closest to the blade) of the fence moving it sideways. That's why I thought it should be held by 2 tensioners on the outside edge, (the right in your schematic) of the fence.

Back to the drawing board. I need one of these saws so I can redesign it for MK.

I saw one operate at Home Depot last weekend when they cut up one of my old kiln shelves for dams. The front edge of the table was scared up badly from the fence and the saw needs a blast shield at the back to control the spray from the blade.

The saw does cut like butter though and the table action is nice and smooth. Made short work of my kiln shelf.

Ron

Steve Immerman · Post by **Steve Immerman** » Wed May 28, 2003 10:58 pm

Brock wrote:Steve, have you done anything about the flimsy fence on the MK? It's really the weakest part of the saw, and always a problem for me. It seems that one set screw is not enough to hold that long flat aluminum bar in place, and even if it does, after a bit of use, you've actually made holes in the bar in screws into, and it becomes hard to adjust precisely. Brock

Brock,

The fence and table are so many orders of magnitude better than the Harbor Freight saw, that I'm still in the "honeymoon phase" with the MK 100. I've found that I can place a slab of glass against the fence and cut perfect right angles, which was wishful thinking with the HF.

Nonetheless, when somebody comes up with a better fence, I'll be in line to buy one! (as long as it's that cool red color)

Steve

Avery Anderson · Post by **Avery Anderson** » Fri May 30, 2003 4:08 pm

Steve Immerman wrote:
Nonetheless, when somebody comes up with a better fence, I'll be in line to buy one! (as long as it's that cool red color)

Steve

Count me in on that too! I have a new MK101 and it is a terrific piece of equipment, with the exception of the fence. When I get down to the last 2 inches on a pattern bar, it's difficult to keep the piece stable. There must be some sort of device that would make this easier.

Avery

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