Vari Etch

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Kitty
Posts: 444
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 4:12 pm
Location: Gig Harbor, WA

Vari Etch

Post by Kitty »

i got the powder, and read the literature. it seems this stuff is fierce and relatively dangerous. my plan is to mix it up with hot water, as directed, and put it into a tub with a lid so i can control evaporation. i'm thinking something like a larger RubberMaid tub, larger than a big lasagna.

initially i thought i could mix this stuff up and keep an acid bath around, with the lid on, and dip/soak pieces as needed. now i'm not so sure that will work.

does anyone have experience with how quickly it re-builds crystals again while it's still in solution? fast, like a few days, or much slower? if it's doing this pretty fast, then there's the logistics of re-dissolving crystals in hot water.

maybe phrased another way, would it be more sensible to mix up this stuff, etch some glass, and then neutralize its pH with bicarbonate of soda, and dispose of? can i use my tub idea, or is it better to mix it up and use it one fresh batch at a time?

so far all i have is the gloves, and have not yet made a field trip to WalMart, that emporium of all essential things (but alas, without a bridal registry).

hoping to hear from those of you who have not acid-etched your hands, lungs, sink and glass-topped lanai furniture.
Ron Coleman
Posts: 468
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 3:20 pm
Location: Columbus, Ohio USA

Post by Ron Coleman »

Kitty

I've had the solution stored for over a month and no crystals yet. There really isn't any noticeable odor or fumes from the solution after you add water. It doesn't smoke or bubble or do anything when you put the glass in to etch. You should be able to keep the bath for a long time.

I would say if you have a plastic tub with a close fitting lid to prevent evaporation you're all set. Get some rubber gloves and other protective gear and have at it. I think the biggest danger is splashing if you drop a piece in the bath. I put a few drops on a piece of wood to see what happened, it just soaked in and dried and left a white deposit on the surface.

Ron
Brian and Jenny Blanthorn
Posts: 353
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 5:25 pm
Location: UK
Contact:

Re: Vari Etch

Post by Brian and Jenny Blanthorn »

Kitty wrote:i got the powder, and read the literature. it seems this stuff is fierce and relatively dangerous. my plan is to mix it up with hot water, as directed, and put it into a tub with a lid so i can control evaporation. i'm thinking something like a larger RubberMaid tub, larger than a big lasagna.

initially i thought i could mix this stuff up and keep an acid bath around, with the lid on, and dip/soak pieces as needed. now i'm not so sure that will work.

does anyone have experience with how quickly it re-builds crystals again while it's still in solution? fast, like a few days, or much slower? if it's doing this pretty fast, then there's the logistics of re-dissolving crystals in hot water.

maybe phrased another way, would it be more sensible to mix up this stuff, etch some glass, and then neutralize its pH with bicarbonate of soda, and dispose of? can i use my tub idea, or is it better to mix it up and use it one fresh batch at a time?

so far all i have is the gloves, and have not yet made a field trip to WalMart, that emporium of all essential things (but alas, without a bridal registry).

hoping to hear from those of you who have not acid-etched your hands, lungs, sink and glass-topped lanai furniture.
I am shure there is some info on

http://www.hisglassworks.com/index.html

In the faq section

There was a bit of chat over craftweb so U might wanna ask ur Q over there but give it a week or so as most at GAS

Thee will B a number of people over there with a use of knowledge by now, it is a new product

I am not familair with the product n so U would need 2 check this out but here is some background info on cristal stuff

If U disolve cristals then let it evaporate U can then get a super saturated solution n U get cristal growth

Often this can B redesolved by adding more solution n stiring
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Marty
Posts: 860
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 3:58 pm
Location: Maine
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Post by Marty »

Kitty-

I keep a large covered vat of the stuff and use it constantly. No crystals, some light deposits at the bottom of the vat. I try to keep the acid in the vat by letting the glass drip for a few seconds before going into the rinse tub. I add water to the acid as needed- there is some evaporation.

You don't want to keep trashing the acid- it's expensive and not necessary. The rinse tub water can be neutralized and dumped periodically- get lots of baking soda (Na2Co4?) and keep adding until it stops actively foaming. Then pour down the drain with lots of running water.

If space is a problem, you can always pour the acid back into the bucket, but I would try to minimize that kind of handling (splashing, spills etc.).

The care data is confusing- I think there's a real set and a cover-your-ass set of instructions. There is a slight pungent odor from the acid, I don't know that it's hazardous or not but I set up an exhaust fan right over the vats. You probably won't fall down dead if you get it on your skin, you might even put your hand in it (briefly) but I've got some serious gloves for any time I'm using the stuff. Ditto a rubber apron, and especially ditto good eye protection, not merely eyeglasses (do like I say, not like I do!). A source of running water nearby is important. Read the first aid instructions thoroughly.

Put the largest piece you're going to etch in the tub, cover with water and mark the level. If you don't have enough acid to fill to that mark, you can always dilute it, but you will have to extend the soak time. You can try using a filler for the corners (sand-filled plastic bottles for example) to make up the volume, but if the glass is touching the props you'll end up with marks there- move the piece around a couple of times during the etch to minimize those contact marks.

The stuff is best on sandblasted glass- I get a nice finish in 15 to 20 minutes on most BE opal colors.
Kitty
Posts: 444
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 4:12 pm
Location: Gig Harbor, WA

Post by Kitty »

thanks everyone ... questions answered and beliefs confirmed. i like the idea of sand-filled plastic containers to adjust water level. i wouldn't have thought of that probably. kitty.
Brian and Jenny Blanthorn
Posts: 353
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 5:25 pm
Location: UK
Contact:

Post by Brian and Jenny Blanthorn »

Marty wrote:Kitty-

I keep a large covered vat of the stuff and use it constantly. No crystals, some light deposits at the bottom of the vat. I try to keep the acid in the vat by letting the glass drip for a few seconds before going into the rinse tub. I add water to the acid as needed- there is some evaporation.

You don't want to keep trashing the acid- it's expensive and not necessary. The rinse tub water can be neutralized and dumped periodically- get lots of baking soda (Na2Co4?) and keep adding until it stops actively foaming. Then pour down the drain with lots of running water.

If space is a problem, you can always pour the acid back into the bucket, but I would try to minimize that kind of handling (splashing, spills etc.).

The care data is confusing- I think there's a real set and a cover-your-ass set of instructions. There is a slight pungent odor from the acid, I don't know that it's hazardous or not but I set up an exhaust fan right over the vats. You probably won't fall down dead if you get it on your skin, you might even put your hand in it (briefly) but I've got some serious gloves for any time I'm using the stuff. Ditto a rubber apron, and especially ditto good eye protection, not merely eyeglasses (do like I say, not like I do!). A source of running water nearby is important. Read the first aid instructions thoroughly.

Put the largest piece you're going to etch in the tub, cover with water and mark the level. If you don't have enough acid to fill to that mark, you can always dilute it, but you will have to extend the soak time. You can try using a filler for the corners (sand-filled plastic bottles for example) to make up the volume, but if the glass is touching the props you'll end up with marks there- move the piece around a couple of times during the etch to minimize those contact marks.

The stuff is best on sandblasted glass- I get a nice finish in 15 to 20 minutes on most BE opal colors.
U got a name 4 this space filling technology ??

Room Filla's tm ?
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Marty
Posts: 860
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 3:58 pm
Location: Maine
Contact:

Post by Marty »

Brian- it's the Nook-n-Cranny (tm) technology. I'm running into resistance in my continuing encroachment on the living spaces of my wife and child so I am forced to be creative. There's an unused bathtub in the basement- perfect for acid etching.

I'm willing to send No.1 son (only child) over to IOW for exchange program- what have you got to trade?

Marty
Brian and Jenny Blanthorn
Posts: 353
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 5:25 pm
Location: UK
Contact:

Post by Brian and Jenny Blanthorn »

Marty wrote:Brian- it's the Nook-n-Cranny (tm) technology. I'm running into resistance in my continuing encroachment on the living spaces of my wife and child so I am forced to be creative. There's an unused bathtub in the basement- perfect for acid etching.

I'm willing to send No.1 son (only child) over to IOW for exchange program- what have you got to trade?

Marty
Might have some Kudzu soon

Hope 4 a bumper harvest
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