Fire Polishing Thick

[Paul Tarlow]

18" x 9" x 1"

If I soak it at 1000F (to ensure the entire piece is safely above the strain point and won't thermal shock) and then go up real fast to fire polish do I need to dam the piece?

The whole thick thing is new for me.

- Paul

[dee]

18" x 9" x 1"

If I soak it at 1000F (to ensure the entire piece is safely above the strain point and won't thermal shock) and then go up real fast to fire polish do I need to dam the piece?

The whole thick thing is new for me.

- Paul

i've not worked with anything thicker than 1/2" thick slabs at times but if you are only going high enuf to fp edges or even start them rounding - in my 24" jen ken this is between 1250 deg and 1300 deg depending on look - i don't dam the piece - sometimes lower and longer is the best course when in doubt - if it's under fp'd you can always put it back in.....

D

[Brian and Jenny Blanthorn]

18" x 9" x 1"

If I soak it at 1000F (to ensure the entire piece is safely above the strain point and won't thermal shock) and then go up real fast to fire polish do I need to dam the piece?

The whole thick thing is new for me.

- Paul

I would use a combination of these technologies

Assuming U got side elements

Baffle n Go tm To keep the body of the glass cool

Zap n Blastem To fire polish the surface

I suggest a 220 grit finish then 280 sandblast or better

Unless U over fire the glass will not pool

[quill]

in my 24" jen ken this is between 1250 deg and 1300 deg depending on look

Would that be for 96 or 90 COE or both?

[dee]

in my 24" jen ken this is between 1250 deg and 1300 deg depending on look

Would that be for 96 or 90 COE or both?

i work with 90 coe exclusively at this point
D