Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2004 6:26 pm
The book sounds intriguing. Can you give us a time table, and details like price? Judging by the piece you showed us I'm ready to preorder the book! 

Guide to fusing, slumping, and related kilnforming techniques
https://warmglass.com/phpBB3/
It won't really be a book, just a webpage with lots of info for all to read and learn. When it's done I'll just post it on the board, just for fun and free. Got some pictures to take and then it will be ready in a few weeks.daffodildeb wrote:The book sounds intriguing. Can you give us a time table, and details like price? Judging by the piece you showed us I'm ready to preorder the book!
The Raku clay will withstand more thermal shock than other clays and it should be ok in that respect.Mike Boos wrote:Good morning Ron. On the comment about making your mold, if you were to make your mold 2-3 x deeper, would you still use the raku clay, or would it be too deep and create the possibility of fracture upon cooling off. Thanks. Mike
in order to solve this, put a thin layer of soft foam between the clay slab and the form. you can also unmold it when it's leather hard. typically you'd let it set for a while, until the water content evens out across the slab piece (if you've used a slip and score method to join pieces of slab together). it will then dry evenly across the piece. if not drying evenly, punch a few small holes in the wetter portions of the clay area to speed up drying in that location. you can also dry on plasterboard or put newspaper over it before covering with plastic. replacing the newspaper will remove water pretty evenly.Ron Coleman wrote:There may be difficulty in forming a very deep clay mold using the drape-over technique I described above. As the wet clay dries there is a fair amount of shrinkage and there is the possibility of cracks developing if the clay gets trapped on the foam form.
When I use this technique to form the clay I cover the foam form and the clay with sheet plastic and allow it to dry very slowly over several days. As the clay dries and shrinks it will "hopefully"slide up on the foam form and not get trapped. Once the clay is dry enough to support itself I remove the form and cover the clay with plastic and continue to dry slowly.
Warpage is another problem which results from uneven drying.
Slumping inside a clay mold shouldn't cause any problems for the glass or the mold.
Ron
Uh-oh..... I feel myself turning into a publishing nag again! If you decide a book might be in your future, join my writer's group for ideas and inspiration!Ron Coleman wrote:It won't really be a book, just a webpage with lots of info for all to read and learn. When it's done I'll just post it on the board, just for fun and free. Got some pictures to take and then it will be ready in a few weeks.daffodildeb wrote:The book sounds intriguing. Can you give us a time table, and details like price? Judging by the piece you showed us I'm ready to preorder the book!
Ron