WarmGlass.com

I am getting ready to do a full fuse with some spectrum. I just bought some 1/4" float that I want to see if it is going to be compatble with some of my float frit and confetti before I do this other project. Seeing how I will only be going up to 1465 for the Spectrum, will this be high enough to see if the float will be compatible. I know this will only be a good tack fuse but will it be good enough to findout if the frit will work on the float or will I need to go to a full fuse on the float to see if I will have any problems. Thanks Tom

tom suter wrote:I am getting ready to do a full fuse with some spectrum. I just bought some 1/4" float that I want to see if it is going to be compatble with some of my float frit and confetti before I do this other project. Seeing how I will only be going up to 1465 for the Spectrum, will this be high enough to see if the float will be compatible. I know this will only be a good tack fuse but will it be good enough to findout if the frit will work on the float or will I need to go to a full fuse on the float to see if I will have any problems. Thanks Tom

2 get a good compat test U realy need the glass realy soft n rounded

Near flattened is best

I think float is higher temp than spectrum and not as flowy

tom suter wrote:I am getting ready to do a full fuse with some spectrum. I just bought some 1/4" float that I want to see if it is going to be compatble with some of my float frit and confetti before I do this other project. Seeing how I will only be going up to 1465 for the Spectrum, will this be high enough to see if the float will be compatible. I know this will only be a good tack fuse but will it be good enough to findout if the frit will work on the float or will I need to go to a full fuse on the float to see if I will have any problems. Thanks Tom

Tom

I often work around 1465 to fuse and texture float glass. You won't get a full flat fuse with your frit it will sit on top, but the glass will fire polish and texture nicely. 1/4" will likely devit so use some borax spray.

Bert

I have some left over glassblowing powders (krugler) that I have had good and bad results with. I usually go to around 1450 with a very light dusting. Some colors crack like crazy and other colors have blended quite nicely without any 'visible' signs of incompatability- but I don't have one of those polorized filters to acutally test it. Some pieces are more than 5 years old and have shown no signs of crazing (yet). *I have much better luck with Starphire glass being compatable with the Krugler powders at a much higher temp (1475)- I think the COE is closer than float's COE.
glenda

Glenda Kronke wrote:I have some left over glassblowing powders (krugler) that I have had good and bad results with. I usually go to around 1450 with a very light dusting. Some colors crack like crazy and other colors have blended quite nicely without any 'visible' signs of incompatability- but I don't have one of those polorized filters to acutally test it. Some pieces are more than 5 years old and have shown no signs of crazing (yet). *I have much better luck with Starphire glass being compatable with the Krugler powders at a much higher temp (1475)- I think the COE is closer than float's COE.
glenda

Glenda

Do you have problems with Starfire with tin bloom and or devit? I have never used it, but have been made aware of problems from a PPG engineer who was involved in developing the formula for manufacture. It is formulated to be tempering friendly, not slump friendly.

Bert

We slump Starphire all the time (except for a few years back when it wasn't available-plant problems?) We always slumped with tin down and used Fusemaster clearcoat never had a problem. We slump into SS and over SS to make lighting fixtures. We always blast the inside of the fixture for that nice white frosted look so I don't recall if devit on underside. Slumping anywhere between 1325 and 1385 depending on shape. We have also fused it without any problems with devit using clearcoat overspray.
glenda

Glenda Kronke wrote:We slump Starphire all the time (except for a few years back when it wasn't available-plant problems?) We always slumped with tin down and used Fusemaster clearcoat never had a problem. We slump into SS and over SS to make lighting fixtures. We always blast the inside of the fixture for that nice white frosted look so I don't recall if devit on underside. Slumping anywhere between 1325 and 1385 depending on shape. We have also fused it without any problems with devit using clearcoat overspray.
glenda

Sandsblasting goes a long way towards removing scum and schmutz.

froggy boy