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Fire Polishing Thick
Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2003 10:11 pm
by Paul Tarlow
18" x 9" x 1"
If I soak it at 1000F (to ensure the entire piece is safely above the strain point and won't thermal shock) and then go up real fast to fire polish do I need to dam the piece?
The whole thick thing is new for me.
- Paul
Re: Fire Polishing Thick
Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2003 10:50 pm
by dee
Paul Tarlow wrote:18" x 9" x 1"
If I soak it at 1000F (to ensure the entire piece is safely above the strain point and won't thermal shock) and then go up real fast to fire polish do I need to dam the piece?
The whole thick thing is new for me.
- Paul
i've not worked with anything thicker than 1/2" thick slabs at times but if you are only going high enuf to fp edges or even start them rounding - in my 24" jen ken this is between 1250 deg and 1300 deg depending on look - i don't dam the piece - sometimes lower and longer is the best course when in doubt - if it's under fp'd you can always put it back in.....
D
Re: Fire Polishing Thick
Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2003 4:45 am
by Brian and Jenny Blanthorn
Paul Tarlow wrote:18" x 9" x 1"
If I soak it at 1000F (to ensure the entire piece is safely above the strain point and won't thermal shock) and then go up real fast to fire polish do I need to dam the piece?
The whole thick thing is new for me.
- Paul
I would use a combination of these technologies
Assuming U got side elements
Baffle n Go tm To keep the body of the glass cool
Zap n Blastem To fire polish the surface
I suggest a 220 grit finish then 280 sandblast or better
Unless U over fire the glass will not pool
Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2003 10:14 am
by quill
in my 24" jen ken this is between 1250 deg and 1300 deg depending on look
Would that be for 96 or 90 COE or both?
Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2003 10:26 am
by dee
quill wrote:in my 24" jen ken this is between 1250 deg and 1300 deg depending on look
Would that be for 96 or 90 COE or both?
i work with 90 coe exclusively at this point
D