WarmGlass.com

I am trying to figure out a way to make a decent hinge for jewelry boxes. I have tried fusing brass tubing under the back edge, also tried using some epoxy to simply glue the tube on, and lastly I've tried fusing some Nichrome(?) wire hoops to the sides on the back. While I have come close to getting something that will work, I am not happy with any of these techniques.
I have been making stained glass jewelry boxes for years, and have always used the brass tube soldered on the back edge/bottom of the lid (then solder the rod in the seam of the back sides, then bend in 45 degrees into the tube for the hinge).
While I can continue to make a hybrid lid (stained/fused) I am ultimately trying to find a way to do this faster. The epoxy may be the fastest but I am afraid of its longetivity. If anyone has any ideas I would be most appreciative! Thanks in advance, Stephen

Are you making the bottom of the box fused glass also? If it is only the lid, you could coat a mandrel with bead separator and put it between two layers of glass. When the fusing is complete, twist the rod and it should pull right out. (there was a post eariler about how to put holes in beads/chimes. Look at those responses and it might give you come ideas). If you did this you could still place your brass rod, bent at a 45 degree, into the opening that the bead mandrel made. If the bottom of your box is fused glass then you would have to create a hole in it or epoxy the brass rod to the bottom. Of the bottom is stained glass, then you should be able to solder the 45 degree rods as you normally would.

Lynda

stephen, in lieu of epoxy you might try GE silicone. it's tough, and is pretty clear. there are some good epoxies out there, such as Devcon 2-Ton (not their 5 minute one, get the one called 2-Ton) and Hyxtal. if you cure them at 150F or 170F for an hour, or two or three, it's very strong.

as for the manufacturing aspect of the lid, not sure what to say. don't make them myself. i kinda like the idea of casting the channel in the lid with the welding rod coated with bead separator, as suggested before my post in this thread. i think that idea has possibilities.