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Hello friends,

I have received a consult regarding a kiln "accident". A floor element have got some glass which dropped from the shelf.

Would you know what can she try in order to save her element?

Apart form this I am curious. The common understanding that 1/4" is the equilibrium thickness for glass (equilibrium between gravity forces and surface tensile forces) is so true?. I think that thickness must be a function of temperature. The more the temperature, the thiner the equilibrium thickness. I believe that's the reason for glass spilling when it's too hot.

Hugo Gavarini wrote:Hello friends,

I have received a consult regarding a kiln "accident". A floor element have got some glass which dropped from the shelf.

Would you know what can she try in order to save her element?

Apart form this I am curious. The common understanding that 1/4" is the equilibrium thickness for glass (equilibrium between gravity forces and surface tensile forces) is so true?. I think that thickness must be a function of temperature. The more the temperature, the thiner the equilibrium thickness. I believe that's the reason for glass spilling when it's too hot.

Yo Hugo

I have glass on my elements some 15 + years

But I dont often go above 1050 c

Thickness is function of temperature

It would be good to gently remove the glass that is stuck to the element especially if you are using fusing temperatures. Grozing pliers will help to remove the glass.
Make sure that all the little bits of glass and element residue are vacuumed up. If the element is broken or breaks you can gently stretch them making sure you get 2 or 3 coils of element to over lap. You may have to remove a little bit of damaged /brittle/thin element wire to make a good contact. Good luck, Victotria

I've had a little glass on my elements for three years with no problems--if its just a little then leave it, you might do more harm trying to get it off.
-A

If the element is broken or breaks you can gently stretch them making sure you get 2 or 3 coils of element to over lap. You may have to remove a little bit of damaged /brittle/thin element wire to make a good contact. Good luck, Victotria

I never would have thought to try that, great idea. Has anybody else use this technique to fix a broken element?

Mark

I can tell you tommorrow how it worked. I've got one clamped toegether with a copper connector. But the oven won't be cool until tommorrow.


Greg

Mark Jacobs wrote:

If the element is broken or breaks you can gently stretch them making sure you get 2 or 3 coils of element to over lap. You may have to remove a little bit of damaged /brittle/thin element wire to make a good contact. Good luck, Victotria

I never would have thought to try that, great idea. Has anybody else use this technique to fix a broken element?

Mark

Yes

Been good some 15 + years + poked in back pig tails as well

Bad Boy

Brian and Jenny Blanthorn wrote:

Mark Jacobs wrote:

If the element is broken or breaks you can gently stretch them making sure you get 2 or 3 coils of element to over lap. You may have to remove a little bit of damaged /brittle/thin element wire to make a good contact. Good luck, Victotria

I never would have thought to try that, great idea. Has anybody else use this technique to fix a broken element?

Mark

Yes

Been good some 15 + years + poked in back pig tails as well

Bad Boy

Good to know. Things like that (broken element and such) seems to happen to me at the most unaccommodating time, middle of the weekend, middle of the night, before a deadline. Not that I've ever had a broken element, but I feel better prepared now when it happens.

Thanks, Mark

OK 1 report, one new hint
the copper clamp is working well. This is a clamp used to clamp a ground wire in your breaker box, then screw it tight.

hint 1: Depending on the scale of the glass on the coil, I just tried a torch. USE A FACE SHIELD, and torch 1 edge of the glob. It should crack, and maybe off of the element. At least you will have less glass left.

Greg