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I am trying to get started with sagging or fusing. I have kiln I use for chinapainting firing - with peep holes no pyrometer-. also i have quite a lot of scrap glass from a man that did stained glass windows. Sounds as though i will have to do a lot of testing.
Could some one tell me the cone to use and timing schedule. Would be much apprecia Jan

Jan Paul, if you are near a glass supplier I wouldn't even consider what you are proposing. Too many variables. Can you take a course, get a book? Brock

In the header of this page there is a link to Brad's tutorials. At this page: http://www.walkerceramics.com.au/cone_temperatures.htm there are conversions from cone to temps. As I understand it, a cone describes both the temp and the heating rate.

Those will get you started. Kiln formed glass can be challenging even with all the right glass and equipment. Starting out without a controller and with non-tested glass raises the bar considerably. It can be done though -- I had a student in one of my classes who had an old ceramic kiln he bought at Goodwill and a box of scrap glass that was in his basement and each week came in with another piece that dumbfounded us all.

- Paul

Jan Paul wrote:I am trying to get started with sagging or fusing. I have kiln I use for chinapainting firing - with peep holes no pyrometer-. also i have quite a lot of scrap glass from a man that did stained glass windows. Sounds as though i will have to do a lot of testing.
Could some one tell me the cone to use and timing schedule. Would be much apprecia Jan

Jan

Get a pyrometer and a controller and some tested compatible glass.

Here's some really good news. The china paints that you have been working with will work on float or colored glasses. If you have skills using the china paints they will translate with a bit of learning curve.

I am teaching this technique before the Warm Glass Weekend at the Millennium Arts Center. see the Warm Glass Weekend Bulletin Board. The 3 day glass painting class still has space left. The other class has a sizable waiting list.

Pyrometers are CHEAP to make. You'll waste a lot of glass without one. See:

http://www2.cemr.wvu.edu/~venable/rmi/s ... ermo-1.pdf

You certainly can fire and properly anneal without a pyrometer. BUT - the learning curve to figure out all the glass firing nuances of your kiln and stained glass (in)compatibilities can be a real killer (of time, materials and enthusiasum)!!

I plugged way for years with a ceramics kiln - no pyrometer or kiln controller. I learned the hard way to both successfully fire and anneal glass.

Let me tell ya........life with a pyrometer and kiln controller is sweet!

Much easier to manage, control and tame the glass, plus you can get really creative and more easily apply advanced techniques to your work.

Get the pyrometer, a good basics fusing book and a controller as soon as you can - you'll be glad you did.